Thanks, it does shift through the gears it just does a lot of clicking like it's shorting out or something. I just wonder if it's going bad or will it just quit (like when I'm on the beach next week).
schrubmeister

 

Hey Schrubmeister, Does yours still go into 4Hi? Mine is doing the same as yours when trying to go into 4Lo. The clicks...then the bangs/clunks and the 4Lo light goes off. If anyone can help out and let us know how to diagnose the problem, that would be great!

thanks

 

1º Self test procedure for 4X4 ECU's: Remove the right kick panel and locate the ECU, while ignition switch is OFF, disconnect the 2 flat connectors, leave connected the square one at the top. Turn ON iginiton swithc and press the self test button at right side of the ECU.

If light blinks at one blink per second it is right, if light stay on or no light then controll need to be replaced.

2º To manual shift on electric shift T-case: Disconect the electric motor plug, remove the 3 bolts that hold it to T-case and remove, there is a shaft that can be moved and the tip of this will point to the T-case possition indicator at case (2H-4H-4L) there is neutral position but it is not marked at case. If your trucks has automatic electronic tranny (E4OD), will shift in 2H even if the t-case was manually moved to 4L.

3º Trucks equiped with automatic trannys will produce a clunk wille shifting from 4H to 4L or backwards, since the tranny output shaft moves while T-case is shifting, this is a normal conddition. Doing a modification to MLPS internal circuit can let you shift from 4H to 4L while tranny is in Park also, then clunk dissapear.

 

thanks for the info do you know how to do the mod to shift in park? that would be cool plus it sounds like it would be a whole lot less wear and tear on the t-case. I'd appreciate some instruction if you have any. I'm gonna print out the last instructions and do those tests this weekend.
schrubmeister
88 EB Bronco

btw: yes zukster mine is doing the same thing it will clunk and bang then either pop out or go in 4-lo and when it pops out both lights go out.Igot it stuckin a nasty hole a while back and tried 5-10 times before it went into 4-lo (didn't help)

 

Well unfortunatelly the only I had modified is installed on my truck, BUT it is not difficult, basically...

1º Remove rivets from MLPS
2º Disassembly and clean all grease
3º At the printed circuit, located the 2 lines for the T-case circuit, giving a look and some brain you will guees how it works, and how it has to be modified to obtain continuity in Neutral AND Park
4º Just cut the circuit line and put a piece of cable jumper
5º Apply grease, reassembly and use bolts and nuts instead of rivets.

I'm going to try find a spare MLPS printed circuit in my garage, to take pictures and post BUT its been long time since I saw it... Any way, after give a look at internal parts you easily understand how it work and how it has to be modifed.

WARNING: Ford doesn't enable 4H to 4L shift in park since sometimes all the truck weight is resting in the Park gear, drive shaft(s) and axels. In this condittion the electric motor can't move the shift fork and controller abort shifting after 2 - 3 seconds, of course it cause overheating to electric motor. The proper procedure to shift in park is: Press and hold brake pedal, move the lever to Neutral and then to Park, then press button at dash. This will release any tension/load from drive shaft before t-case shift.