brake shoe replacement
thanks,
Vince
Pull both drums off, and work on one side at a time, under no circumstances shall you have any part off the left side, if the right is still apart. Mark each pad Driver side front, driver side back, passenger side front and back. The pads are different, they look similar but are just a little bit different. Usually the new front pads on each side is marked with a paint dot, and I believe the front pad is longer in length, don't quote me.
Buy a standard brake kit, they are cheap, years of use and heat cause invisible damage to old springs.
You really need the tools! A combination spring and brake pin removal tool or each tool separately is almost mandatory, unless you are a genius handling the channel-locks and vise-grips. Anti seize grease, the silver stuff is needed, it is good to use on the back of each pad "foot" ( not on the brake lining) and to lube up the spinning part of the ratcheted adjustor.
The real question is''jhow are you gonna get the drums reground while the truck is up on stands? The drums don't always need to be turned but should be measured for maximum inside diameter, should be stamped somewhere.
The brake adjustor levers ( kind of Texas State shaped) at the bottom of the brake drum and between the shoes and over the ratchet are sold separate, they are cheap enuf to include in your home inventory as spare parts, but they can break if you are not gentle when attaching the cable to them.
I am not listing any procedures here sorry, but here is another tip.
Carefully inspect the left and right brake cylinder for leakage under the rubber caps, that is where the brake fluid starts leaking sometimes. If you see any oily patches on the brake cylinder that cylinder may need to be replaced, it is a safety issue.


