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Hey thats pretty good! Well here's what my truck's headlights look like right now. They are the originals and need some cleaning.
Does anyone know in what store I can find some 3M Rubbing Compound? I don't want to order it online if I could just pick it up here.
Ok, so I did it... well not exactly. I did it somewhat not trying. Goes to show you what little effort can do. Although, I think it could have came out better, I think its rather good for a first try. Compare this to my other picture to notice the difference.
Actually, I was thinking about doing that when I first got my truck, but I always find a shade of blue on them for some wierd reason. I'll have to think about it.
to do it right you need to get a polish and a cleaner that was made for the plastic lens.
I use 3M and the part#'s are plastic cleaner=# 39017 ,plastic polish = # 39010.
or if you can find it 3m also makes a complete windscreen polishing kit for aircraft, the winscreen's in aircraft is a clear plastic, and both system's I have used with great results.
for heavy scared plastic use a 2000. grit wet sand paper and use a light amount of pressure and have a bucket of soapy water on hand with a spong to keep the paper wet and it helps cut down the scratches better.
while sanding keep an eye on the scare mark in the plastic feather it down untile the scare is gone "but be carefull and keep the sanding spreading around the area and not deform the spot being sanded.
next use a 5000 grit and wet sand lightly to smooth the plastic for the cleaner and polish, after the sanding is done hand wash the plastic to remove any sanding residue, then rinse and wipe dry. next steep is to use a dime size amount of cleaner this removes any micro size dirt and scratches you may have missed, buff by hand with a soft terry towl. then apply the polish use only a dime size amount and rub it in by hand untile it becomes dry . the buff with a very soft rag " micro fiber" if you can get them. works very very well and take only 15 min to do and all by hand. you dont need to use a power tool on plastic. also the plastic polish can be used by itself on compact disc's ,"cd's".
also . I used this on my 59 imperial crown , and I have to say the lenses and dash look better than new. considering I had to use a plastic welding kit to putt a rear bullit lens back together and polished it.
if you like I can polish half a tail light lens from my 80 ford f100. and post the pictures online ?
as a before and after photo.
Wow, I don't want to be a bother but if you could that would be great! Where could I find these products though? I bought Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound because I couldn't find a store that carries 3M. Or I would find only some 3M products but not the one's I wanted. Do I have to order them online? Would using a 5000 grit sand paper really make that much of a difference? I thought the Rubbing Compound took care of scratches?
I purchased the polish and cleaner from CAR QUEST. and I have seen it at NAPA. I paid $8. each
I will have to wait until morning to take the pictures , its to dark outside right know.
rubbing compound will remove the scratches but not as good as the paper, if you want to find 2000, and finer grit paper, a automotive paint and body shop will carry it, but if for some reason they dont, you can also get up to a 25,000. grit from some hobby shops . that is how I got my paper.
the compound will work but it's more messy than the soap/water and sand paper, plus its harder to get off mostly in nukes and crannys.
also if you can find it "micro mesh" is awsome , has everything you need in a small box for about $18. it has sand paper and polish. plus instructions, I have used this on a 1989 bell helicopter, and the main rotors would blast the windscrean with dust and a few buggs, now it's like new.
I forgot to say where to get the micro mesh kit . go to you'r local airports maintance department they all have used micro mesh just ask them . they may give you a used kit free.
The yellowing around the edges can not be removed unless you crack open the lens itself and reglue it, as the glue used during the manufacturing of these lenses has a yellow tint. The Before and After pictures turned out nice, there's an obvious shine to the lenses after you spent the time to wet-sand and polish.
If you give these lenses a slight smoke they'll blend in well together and look pretty kick-*** with your billet grill!
If you want to do it by hand, try a soft cloth and toothpaste. Works pretty darn good. Sounds stupid, but it works. Won't work on scratches, but removes the "fog".
...I've sworn by and used Goo-Gone all my life until I recently purchased a 97' F250 which had ugly chrome panels EVERYWHERE on the truck. I tore all these off and was left with a huge mess of Adhesive to remove; Goo-Gone didn't even make a dent on this stuff even with a blow-dryer's assistance. When I purchased the 3M Adhesive, Wax, and Mark remover I was completely astonished how easy it was to remove this stuff; simply spray the product on the trouble area, let it soak in for 5-10 min., then scrape with a bondo-spreader and wipe with a terry cloth towel ...I was excited to see some marks on the paint disappear too! THIS IS COMPLETELY SAFE FOR YOUR PAINT!!! ...but remember, it is a WAX remover also, so be sure to clay your paint and wax after using this product.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Use 3M's Adhesive, Wax, and Mark Remover and you'll NEVER go back to Goo-Gone - PERIOD!<o></o>
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.