distributer stuck
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
We have quite a few solutions as this has been posted numerous times.
You need a penetrating fluid where the corrosion between aluminium & cast exists.
We have heard:
WD-40
Liquid Wrench
Diesel fuel
Bolt Blaster
Amways "Wonder Mist"
The key to this is frequent quenching up until the day you need to have it loose.
Once you finally have it loose........remove it and with an emery cloth remove the corrosion & coat that area with either anti-seize , or Di-electric grease.
Have fun
You need a penetrating fluid where the corrosion between aluminium & cast exists.
We have heard:
WD-40
Liquid Wrench
Diesel fuel
Bolt Blaster
Amways "Wonder Mist"
The key to this is frequent quenching up until the day you need to have it loose.
Once you finally have it loose........remove it and with an emery cloth remove the corrosion & coat that area with either anti-seize , or Di-electric grease.
Have fun
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: Augusta.GA
Stuck Distributor
I asked the same question some time ago. I got alot of good responses, and first choice is using a good penetrant soak before doing anything else. Give it plenty of time to work .
I would not try banging or prying with other than light taps. The cast will crack, I know because I cracked mine. After more than a week soaking and tapping, I just wanted it out and was using pry bars, pipe wrench anything at all since didn't care whether it got destroyed in the process.
After purchasing a second motor for parts, and seeing that the replacement distributor carries a $30 core charge, I listened more closely to a posting where some knowing soul suggested I take the oil pan off, remove the oil pump, and use the hex oil drive rod to tap out the distributor from underneath. This is the ticket and worked very well for me.
I would not try banging or prying with other than light taps. The cast will crack, I know because I cracked mine. After more than a week soaking and tapping, I just wanted it out and was using pry bars, pipe wrench anything at all since didn't care whether it got destroyed in the process.
After purchasing a second motor for parts, and seeing that the replacement distributor carries a $30 core charge, I listened more closely to a posting where some knowing soul suggested I take the oil pan off, remove the oil pump, and use the hex oil drive rod to tap out the distributor from underneath. This is the ticket and worked very well for me.
New User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I'm rebuilding my 73 351C Mustang and had the exact same problem. Very common. I tried the following recommendations with no luck: soaking for a week in pb-blaster penetrant, heating up the dist shaft, pulling pan and tapping from bottom of shaft. Nothing worked. Knowing I was tossing the old distributor, I finally went to Sears and bought an Empire chain pipe wrench. That did the trick! I put the chain around the outside of the housing after removing the vacumn cannister. It still took major torque to break it loose. And it took a couple of turns before it did finally loosen. Its something when that aluminum binds to iron. Here is the link:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00951663000
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00951663000
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Mike W
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Sep 12, 2003 10:01 PM
