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I'm still in the process of converting my 65 F100 sb to disk brakes. I have run into a small problem. I am wondering if a whole new 78 tie rod will fit into place. My local parts dealers tell me two different things (1) says I can replace the tie rod ends (ball joints) just replaceing the ball joints on the tie rod ends for $110. Parts dealer(2) says you can not remove theball joints on the tie rod ends you have to replace the whole tie rod to get the length on the end I'll need the 78 rod ends but is it the same tie rod. I've heard of some differeces with bends.
I have not seen any of the trucks I've had that you could replace just tie rod
ends,you will need the entire steering arm, have you thought about a donor for the arms you will have to check them to make sure there not bent and
that the tie rods are not worn out. If you have the money for the new ones
that would be even beter! On my swap I used 76 arms and it went well, you
may want to search for more info you will turn up a lot more!
P.S you do know that you could use the ones from the truck that your swaping to if there in good shape!
Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Jun 11, 2005 at 09:09 AM.
Twin I beam set us use what's called a center link. Centerlinks are the same for F100, F150 & light duty F250 4X2 front ends. The other centerlink is for F250 over 6900# GVW, and for F350 front ends. Configuration's pretty much the same, but pitman arm and steering knuckles are not the same. A HD centerlink does not fit LD vehicles.
I have done a few 2Wd, F, Series Truck Centerlink replacements and I don't recall any not fitting because they were formed differently.
FBp
Thanks Guys what I've come across is I ordered a 78 f150 tie rod and it was shaped wrong so I picked up a 65 f100 tie rod and it worked well I altered my castle nut just barely and it worked well . Thanks
Should you ground out the spindle area around the castle nut as in the disc brake swap article. And install an unalterted castle nut. I figured you ground the bottom of the castle nut which may weaken it.
Just my 2 cents worth
Yes I ground the notch of the castle nut just one notch so I could get the kotter key in it was only about 1/16 argued with my machinist buddy he said that was the way to do it but he isn't driving at 60+ either I'll go back and grind the spindle. I am more concerened with the tie rod adjuster we field aligned it last nite and with we measured it from tread to tread front to rear (on the front tire). The adjuster nut only has enough tie rod in it (about 1" each side) for each clamp to cover the tie rod do I need to be concerned about that ? Also I found a nice solution to the brake line problem a local Hydraulics hose shop makes brake lines getting them made for about $16 ea. But I have to wait a week. Craig
I think you may be better off going ahead and finding the steering parts from
a donor truck 73 -79 it would just seem safer to me! Maybe someone will
give there insight on this also! Because it does not seem like there is a lot
left in the tie rod adjuster for me to feel safe about.
Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Jun 15, 2005 at 06:59 PM.
Thats what I ordered a tie rod from a 78 f150 and its to short apporx 2,5 inches shorter than the original 65 tie rod end. I'll have to order a 65 the long end that goes to the drivers side wheel is identical but the shorter end other side of the adjuster is about 2.5 inches shorter I order the 78 tie rod from NAPA.
Be aware guys they make two of the short tie rod ends make sure you get the longer one. I picked up the longer of the two and all I can say is Life is Good. Thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow.