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I have the filter and the yellow special tool to remove couplings, does this thing work? I don't want to remove the filter and be stranded in the driveway. Anyone one else changed their filter using this special tool, I believe that I purchased it from NAPA.
Richard ,
Ive always just popped the plastic tabs on the fuel line w a screwdriver . Please make sure you have depresurized the system before you pull the line away from the filter otherwise you are going to get a gas bath esp if you have driven the truck in the last hour or so . All those tabs do is keep the lines locked on the filter . Make sure the new fuel filter came w new tabs
It's best to first remove the filter mounting bracket from the frame rail, gives you better access,then using the special tool, pushing it all the way in to release the garter spring, then you can pull the fuel line away from the filter. It took me quite a while to accomplish this on my '94 f-150. Reassembly is very simple, just push on the fuel lines at each end, and rebolt the bracket.
>It's best to first remove the filter
>mounting bracket from the frame rail,
>gives you better access,then using the
>special tool, pushing it all the
>way in to release the garter
>spring, then you can pull the
>fuel line away from the filter.
> It took me quite a
>while to accomplish this on my
>'94 f-150. Reassembly is very
>simple, just push on the fuel
>lines at each end, and rebolt
>the bracket.
Do you guys drop the pressure like it says in the Haynes manual? I havent done mine since I got it in 94, I have always had the dealer do it.
Pastmaster ,
Im not sure what the Haynes manual says . What I have always done is disconnect the plug at the Inertia Switch , which is located on the firefall in the vicinity of the clutch / Brake pedals . It usually has a Little Red button on top of the switch to reset it in the event it gets tripped . Unplug it , crank the engine until it dies and or wont start . After that, youre safe to undo the filter . Ill add disconnecting any power supply to the pump and cranking it will work . Whatever is easiest to get to works for me .
>Pastmaster ,
>
> Im not sure
>what the Haynes manual says .
>What I have always done is
>disconnect the plug at the Inertia
>Switch , which is located on
>the firefall in the vicinity of
>the clutch / Brake pedals .
>It usually has a Little Red
>button on top of the switch
>to reset it in the event
>it gets tripped . Unplug it
>, crank the engine until it
>dies and or wont start .
>After that, youre safe to undo
>the filter . Ill add disconnecting
>any power supply to the pump
>and cranking it will work .
>Whatever is easiest to get to
>works for me .
That is exactly what it says to do. I don't have the tool, and I had a terrible time trying to remove the lines. They were pretty easy to replace on the earlier fuel injecteds.
For anyone having trouble releasing the garter springs locks on fuel or Ac lines . You can buy a set of the little plastic tools , they really arent that expensive ..I think I gave $20 or for them at a local tool shop ? They are color coded so if you know what size you need , you only have to buy the one clamshell tool you need ...Red is 3/8 , Blue is 1/2 , Black is 5/8 and Grey is 3/4 . I know Pep Boys has them in the A/c section of their stores .I am pretty sure to buy one is like $5 to $10 . They work great and are the only way to deal w garter spring locks .
Paul
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