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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Best drill bits for frames by brand and type

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Old May 19, 2005 | 06:26 PM
  #16  
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Yes, you can use bits after they've turned blue if you grind them back far enough to get back into the hardened steel (the blue color tells you that you have gotten the bit hot enough to destroy the temper in that portion) but I figured that anyone who has overheated a bit that badly isn't resharpening them anyway or doesn't know how to grind it back and resharpen it without burning it further on the wheel, and the HS steel or TiN coated bits aren't expensive enough to bother with anyhow for someone lacking those skills. I recently purchased a set of Cobalt steel bits 135* splitpoints and think they are wonderful, but I couldn't recommend them to anyone without the sharpening skills and diamond grinding wheels to maintain them nor are they available at most DIY stores. That's why I suggested the TiN coated bits as the best bang for the $$$ and still cheap enough to be considered expendable when dull.
I earn my living with metalworking tools so I am very particular about maintaining them, but unless it's my last one and I need to use it right then, you'll not catch me resharpening a #75 bit!
 

Last edited by AXracer; May 19, 2005 at 06:30 PM.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 06:52 PM
  #17  
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From: "Islander"
Irwin Turbomax bits in cobalt have a small pilot and cutting edges parallel with the cutting surface. 1/4" will go thru Ford frame like butta. You can not step drill as you'll loose the pilot, not cheap but after owning a set i'll buy again.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old May 19, 2005 | 07:20 PM
  #18  
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I use high speed steel bits.. If I cant drill thru with them than I use my plasma cutter ... Or if it a piece unders 4ftx4ft than Id put it on the wetjet to cut it...
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 12:33 AM
  #19  
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sancho
I've been making / selling drills for the last 25 years.
you asked for brand - type
best brand is precision twist
best type for what your doing is cobalt stub split point.
ask for them by name at any machine shop supply house.
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 10:37 AM
  #20  
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You're right, Keith. The stub length is better for thin stuff like the frame. Helps keep the flex to a minimum and you sure won't break one in half.
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 04:08 PM
  #21  
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From: "Islander"
I drilled out a friends spring hangers with a 3/4" Milwaukee magnetic base drill, it's variable speed, wouldn't be without one.
Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 04:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
I drilled out a friends spring hangers with a 3/4" Milwaukee magnetic base drill, it's variable speed, wouldn't be without one.
Carl....=o&o>....
Says Pete the safecracker...
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 05:09 PM
  #23  
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I don't have one of those but I borrow one from a friend and it is an awesome tool. I think he bought it out of some guy's trunk for $15
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 05:29 PM
  #24  
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Your lucky to get a 3/4" chuck key for $15. You got to chain 'em up when in use, should the power fail it will fall off big time.
Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 05:42 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by fatfenders56
I don't have one of those but I borrow one from a friend and it is an awesome tool. I think he bought it out of some guy's trunk for $15
Pete was in AZ?
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 05:46 PM
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Actually, the guy's name was Floyd and he was driving a purple Maverick 4-dr with a padded white vinyl top
 
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Old May 20, 2005 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fatfenders56
Actually, the guy's name was Floyd and he was driving a purple Maverick 4-dr with a padded white vinyl top
That's Pete's car! Wonder what happened to Pete? There wasn't a big rug in the trunk too was there?
 
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Old May 23, 2005 | 09:20 AM
  #28  
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Smile

the only rug this guy had was on his head, the chin strap gave it away!
 
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