Drilling bed wood holes
#1
Drilling bed wood holes
I’ve decided to replace the Lexan polycarbonate bed that came with my ’56 truck with oak wood.
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Since the frame is boxed, I ordered the wood without holes to align to tabs welded on the frame at a different location than stock.
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I have the diagram for the countersunk holes that show a 1 ¾ inch diameter. For those that had to drill your own bed wood holes, what tool did you use? I do not have a forstner bit that large and was wondering if there are alternatives?
Thanks.
<o></o>
Since the frame is boxed, I ordered the wood without holes to align to tabs welded on the frame at a different location than stock.
<o></o>
I have the diagram for the countersunk holes that show a 1 ¾ inch diameter. For those that had to drill your own bed wood holes, what tool did you use? I do not have a forstner bit that large and was wondering if there are alternatives?
Thanks.
#2
If you are eventually going all the way through to put the bolts through you can drill the countersink first using a speed boring bit. Home Depot sells one for about $10. But the forstner bit will be a little "finer" quality of cut. Or if you are into older tools use an auger and bit.
Drill the countersink hole (the bigger one) first, then use a smaller drill to go all the way through. A piece of masking tape over the spot where you are going to drill the countersink will help keep it from splintering as bad. Also, a drill guide that you can set the drill depth will help make the holes a consistant depth. Or wrap some masking tape around the bit at the depth you want it to stop at.
Drill slowly, gently and patiently with a bit that size.
Julie!
Drill the countersink hole (the bigger one) first, then use a smaller drill to go all the way through. A piece of masking tape over the spot where you are going to drill the countersink will help keep it from splintering as bad. Also, a drill guide that you can set the drill depth will help make the holes a consistant depth. Or wrap some masking tape around the bit at the depth you want it to stop at.
Drill slowly, gently and patiently with a bit that size.
Julie!
#3
Forsner bits are not that expensive, and worth every penny for this use compared to the cost of one oak board. Oak splinters easily. Bite the bullet and buy the bit or you'll kick yourself later when you have to keep looking at the chipped up holes. A 99.00 bench drill press or at least one that will clamp your portable drill motor is also a tool that belongs in every shop.
#4
Forsner bits are not that expensive, and worth every penny for this use compared to the cost of one oak board. Oak splinters easily. Bite the bullet and buy the bit or you'll kick yourself later when you have to keep looking at the chipped up holes. A 99.00 bench drill press or at least one that will clamp your portable drill motor is also a tool that belongs in every shop.
Agreed.
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I might have been able to “finesse it” with a spade/bore bit as mentioned but for a few more bucks, I should use the best tool. I do have a 12 speed floor drill press and could have easily splinted the wood if I wasn’t real careful.
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Sooo, after buying the oak wood, stain, spar urethane, natural bristle brush, SS bed strips, SS bolt set, and bed wood seal strips, $18 for a new bit doesn’t seem that bad in comparison.
<o></o>Thanks for setting my mind straight.
#5
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