At first one switch seemed like it was sticking. Now one operates intermittently and the other does not work at all. The one that does work seems to be fine when cool then deosn't operate in the peak heat of the day.

Anybody got a fix for this. If not or it's expensive they will probably just stay closed permanently. I don't really like the design anyway.

Thanks.

 

I just started having this problem with the R Side unit. Wouldn't open at all -- I smacked the glass from the inside (not TOO hard!!) and the window opened when I pressed the switch.

Haven't looked at it yet, but I'm wondering if the window is sticking to the weatherstripping (I'll put some Meguiar's rubber cleaner on today) or the hinge needs lubrication.

 

My 2005 started going intermittent on the passenger side, then the switch heated enought to partially melt the headliner/console and require warranty replacement. If the switch is fused the fuse or breaker apparently allowed this.

I would get it checked ASAP!

quietman
www.roenation.com

 

spartan

this is like 'deja vou'.. I replied to another post of yours earlier with similar answer looks like we share some common problems..

My pass. side motor for vent window was replaced 2x after the front switch was fixed 1x. I also had a new rear fan motor replaced along with rear lock actuators. One door had whole new lock assembly replaced and STILL doesnt work right! I am going back next week.. so far, everything is under warranty

I still love the truck!

 

So get this - after I started this thread - I started dicking around with the switches today and they both worked.....go figure!

I've had my truck well over five years now and noticed that the windows would stick when the truck got really dirty, but you could still hear the switches making contact when you pressed them. Lately they are either dead or alive. I'm going to try some electrical contact cleaner and see what happens....

 

Both side have given me problems but it was not the switch. The motor sometimes over torques the closing making it difficult for the motor to reopen the window. A bit of WD-40 on the motor and remember not to torque the window closed. Close it just enough to be snug.

 

I've had this problem on my Ex intermittently. When you get the window open again, clean the glass/rubber mating surfaces. You may find that there is tree sap or other stuff in there that creates a bond when it is left closed long enough. I hope this helps.

 

You are all wrong on this as is the dealer. its a simple loose wire. it happend to both my windows. Dealer told me I needed new motors and switches at a huge hit to the wallet, I went home and got out my trusty test light. YEP i had power...then I played with the connections. The connections were all loose

 

I don't think it makes the other answers wrong, I had the same situation with my right side not working, had a buddy just put some pressure on the window when I operated the switch and heard kinda a sticking sound as the window broke loose. Cleaned it and have never had another problem with it again.

 

just to add to the thoughts here.. I had passenger side motor replaced a while ago and now have driver side motor on order for replacement in a week or so..

As long as it is under warranty I LIKE the idea of a new motor being installed.. Plus, FORD was fast to offer to replace them.. However, once I have to pay for it.. you can bet I'll be fidgeting with the window sticking, loose wires etc

 

Hello, gents,

Here's one for you.

OK, what some of you may or may not know is the roof seam welder at the factory took a vacation (in the case of my 02' Ex) on the passenger side rear. Left about a one inch gap letting water (and car-wash soap) penatrate into the vehicle at the aft rain rail. The switch, along with your rear AC is directly below.

I had the switch replaced, along with the headliner, rear carpet kit and of couse panels get beat-up and damaged duing the removal and the re-installation. Major hassle.

This is apparently not isolated to my vehicle. I probably found it early enough to prevent electronics (i.e. rear dvd) from fritzing out - that remains to be seen. Understand Ford is well aware but I do not know of any re-inspection program but I understand they have settled on some other cases.

If this is the issue you should still be covered by warranty as it's a structural perforation. Of course the nay-sayers will probably imply your kids put superglue on the window, and of course your problem might be completely different.

A quick check with a flat toothpick and a ladder should let you know if you have this problem. Also pop your access panel for your rear a/c - jack storage and see if there's any oxidation or dampness.

You can see the repair event at my personal website www.myfordstory.com.

Cheers.

 

Thread resurrection....

I've read on this issue time and time again, and have to ask... has anyone ever found a real problem to why we all have issues with the passenger side?!

My drivers side works like a charm, always has.
... even with the molding sticking, and all the other simple 'repairs' besides replacing motors/switches/connections or repairing wiring. Simple this and thats seem to keep it working.

The passenger side... another story.
... I've since come to the conclusion, the motor (arm) is allowing the mechanism to hyper-extend itself (on my vehicle anyway). When it does this, it can't power the window back in. If I let it draw the window in, and suck it up tight... it does the same thing (won't open). It'll only open, if I loosed all three bolts and give the motor and arm a jiggle.

Now, I can get it to work as long as I remember not to open it ALL the way out, where the arm hyper extends. Same holds true for pulling it back in, just don't let it snug up tight against the vehicle. Why can't FORD had made this so the armature works as it should?! Go figure.

... I even at one point, tried to use washers behind the motor to see if I could get it to properly place itself (no pressures from inward pulling or pushing outward) with no armature hyper-extension. I thought I had it for awhile... but, it sooned stopped working again until I loosened all the bolts and helped it a bit. NOW... I just have to remember, EASY on the switch and watch the window move.

WHAT A PITA!!!!

I also see those who have lost adhesion from the window, to the metal arm. Yet, I've never seen anyone try 3M's 5200 white adhesive. Epoxies probably get too hard (as they fail) and brittle, and other adhesives aren't able to adhere to glass too well. 3M 5200 is some amazing stuff!!!