Setting hyd. lifter with adj. rockers
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 863
Likes: 2
From: Grain Valley Mo.
Setting hyd. lifter with adj. rockers
I was looking thru Steve Christs book on setting lifter preload. He says the preload should be between .100-.200 on hyd. lifters. He also says the lifter must be primed with oil before installing. Then he tells how to bleed it down to check preload. That doesn't make sense to me so I thought I'd ask how you guys do it.....Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Well the way I do it, is I get the cylinder I'm going to adjust up to TDC on the compression stroke. I mark the balancer so I know where TDC, 90*, 180*, and 270* are. Start on number 1 cylinder. Then, I spin the pushrod for the rocker I'm adjusting with my fingers. If it's turning hard, turn the adjuster out until you feel no resistance to turning the pushrod. Then, I slowly tighten the adjuster until I feel the pushrod start to resist a little. Then you're at zero lash. Turn the adjuster one more turn. Then you have the proper preload for that lifter. You can then adjust the other valve on that cylinder. Then, turn the crank clockwise to the next mark on the balancer, and adjust the next cylinder in the firing order. Since you started on #1, you adjust number 5 next, and so on.
Have fun!
Have fun!
What about primeing, these are new lifters with no oil in them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
You can prime 'em if you want, it's not necessary but it prevents you from having to hear 5 minutes of lifter clattering when you start the engine. The way I do it, is get a cool-whip or other plastic container (cleaned of course), and stand all the lifters up in it. Then fill with oil until the oil covers the tops of the lifters. Use a pushrod, and hold each lifter compressed until air stops escaping from it. Let up, wait a minute, then repeat the process again until the lifter becomes reasonably firm and no air escapes. Repeat for the other lifters.
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
I find it easier to install lifters dry (cam lube on cam and lifter bottoms), adjust preload. Install a spare dizzy that has the gear teeth removed as a pre oiler and run for 4 minutes after oil pressure has been established. When you fire up you'll hear some lifters but become quiet quickly. Primed lifters are a pain to bleed down especially if you use a feeler gauge vs degrees turning adjusting screw. I prefer feeler gauge or number drill shank method.
Carl....=o&o>....
Carl....=o&o>....
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
xfordman, I use a stack of blades from a feeler gauge or #55 drill bit .052" shank between the valve stem tip and roller on the rocker. This is with empty or dry lifters, easy to compress vs bleeding down. Some instructions state preload .100 to .200". After bending valves I set them my way as the lifters pumped up and I have heavy stainless valves. Use your own judgement or lifter specs.
Carl....=o&o>....
Carl....=o&o>....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
austinlittle34
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Feb 11, 2013 09:29 AM
blk dog
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Nov 30, 2010 10:32 AM
tastyklair
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
1
Mar 15, 2004 06:34 PM
