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Brake controllers aren't protected from reverse voltage; if you pull the pin for the breakaway system while the trailer is plugged in, you send 12v up the wire that normally supplies 12v to the trailer's brakes. This fries the controller.
joeturner. Ive read your post because I was looking for info on EXACTLY same issue. Apparently no one else understands that you paid good money to have a brake controller that works AT LEAST as good as any aftermarket controller, hence wheel chocks, break away switch disconnect etc etc are definately NOT the right answer here. Ive got a 2005 F350 DRW CC 6.0 PSD with integrated brake controller. I also have short box and 15K Reese slider and I have same issue EXACTLY as you do. Not only that BUT, to do the safety pull (manually apply trailer brakes and try to drive truck in forward direction = trailer should hold truck still) to ensure your kingpin is locked into the hitch is impossible as well. Ive just sent an Email to Ford Canada with my concern and expect a reply by end of this week. In the meantime, to slide my hitch, Ive used the manual switch for trailer brakes and give the truck a quick shot of throttle to get the slide moving but you know what happens when it locks at the other end..........BANG!!!!
Stay tuned??????
Last edited by Diesel Dug; May 23, 2005 at 07:55 PM.
Reason: add more info
Brake controllers aren't protected from reverse voltage; if you pull the pin for the breakaway system while the trailer is plugged in, you send 12v up the wire that normally supplies 12v to the trailer's brakes. This fries the controller.
Steve
I not understand the logic here. If I am hauling the 5th and I make a turn and the breakaway cable gets pull out your saying it would fry the controller? I have read post of people were this has happen and the did not mention that it fried the controller. I have never heard of this. Is it only on the built in Ford controller?
I'm confused as well. It would seem that regardless of the controller manufacturer, any possibility of such a thing happening would be protectected by a relay or fuse.
However, I don't see how an open, ungrounded, circuit can return 12V to fry a controller.
Tekonsha's website has the following regarding installation of breakaway switches:
"Disconnect trailer plug before testing breakaway unit. Failure to do so will result in severe damage to electronic brake controller." Their Prodigy installation sheet also has the same warning.
I'm not about to try to prove them wrong; they make 'em so they should know what they're talking about.
Brake controllers aren't protected from reverse voltage; if you pull the pin for the breakaway system while the trailer is plugged in, you send 12v up the wire that normally supplies 12v to the trailer's brakes. This fries the controller.
Steve
I have an 05 F350 with the factory brake controller. I just completed an 8000 mi. trip pulling a 5er and I inadvertantly pulled out the breakaway lanyard 4 times while maneuvering in different situations. No damage was incurred to the brake controller. Wouldn't that be the strangest thing, to have a safety devise like that and every time it was used , you had to buy a new system? common!
Last edited by Superduper; Sep 13, 2005 at 05:04 PM.
The voltage from your break-away battery will back-feed up the trailer wiring and into the truck, specifically to the brake controller. I have heard of this as well. Apparently, something gets burned up inside the brake controllers if the voltage is sent backwards up the harness.
I have an 05 F350 with the factory brake controller. I just completed an 8000 mi. trip pulling a 5er and I inadvertantly pulled out the breakaway lanyard 4 times while maneuvering in different situations. No damage was incurred to the brake controller. Wouldn't that be the strangest thing, to have a safety devise like that and every time it was used , you had to buy a new system? common!
I have a Prodigy controller and have accidently pulled the break-away cable accidently too. No damage was done.
There may be a warning, but I think there is protection there, it wouldn't make sense there isn't.
All the manufacturers would have to do is put a diode in series with the output and no voltage could back feed into the controller. We had a problem with Astron power supplies hooked to batteries. If you lost the ac power the battery would back feed into the power supply and blow out the I.C. chip in the Astron. We solved the problem by putting a diode in series with the positive battery lead.
I pulled my Tekonsha apart and it looks like the switching transistor goes directly out to the brakes, so some weird spike going back into the controller could possibly blow the transistor. The simple act of unplugging the breakaway shouldn't harm anything. But if the switch was arcing or in some way corroded it could possibly throw a spike into the controller. I would suspect the breakaway switch is the problem and not the controller.
Last edited by fasthauler; Sep 14, 2005 at 10:55 AM.
Reason: spelling error
This post started out asking about voltage output of the controller. I remember reading in the installation sheet ( yeah, I actually read one once) for a Tekonsha Voyager controller, that you needed a resistive load (light bulb or other) to ensure proper operation of their controller prior to operation on the road. They cautioned against testing with a multi meter due to not being able to read a voltage change. More food for thought.
It seems as though Ford may have dropped the ball on this one. Anyone who has towed a 5er with a shorty knows that you lock the trailer brakes with the controller in order to slide the hitch. One option is what I did.... I got tired of the Reese slider and changed over to the 16K Super Glide. The hitch is based on a cam system and slides back automaticaly when you turn tight. I am pulling a wide body TH and with the Super Glide I can make a U-Turn with the steering wheel to the lock and I still have clearance. I will say though that you have to be pretty fed up with the Reese (I was) because the Super Glide aint cheap! One nice feature though is that once you pull the hitch out and remove the pins you have a totaly clean and flat load floor .... all of the mounting brakets are under the truck.