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The built-in trailer brake controller only puts out about 2.7 Vdc with the manual slider engaged when stopped. Apparently this is the way it is supposed to operate. That is not enough to lock the trailer brakes in order to slide a 5th wheel slider back & forth in the bed. Has anyone addressed this issue?
'05 F250 6.0
Last edited by joeturner; May 16, 2005 at 04:00 PM.
I would do as crash 687 suggested and use chock blocks on all sides of your trailor tires when attaching the 5er. My opinion on the Ford trailor brake controller is that it is a great set up, compared to my lasts after market controller.
I thought I had a problem with my controller yesterday as the light did not come on after plugging in the trailor. Well, those clowns at work turned my dash lights down. After I realized that I could not see the speedo while going down the road, I figured out the problem. Lesson learned, lock doors at work!
You might also try tripping the emergency trailor brake lock (cable at safety chains). You might be able to use that if chocks are not secure enough for you. It seems that chocks would be the simplest though.
Yes chocks will work, but my concern is not when hooking up the 5er, but when having to back up my short bed truck during a tight maneuver. The hitch in the bed has a slider which has to be slid back so the trailer won't hit the cab during a tight turn. With a conventional brake controller I would just have to move a lever on the hitch, set the brake on the trailer with the brake controller & move the truck forward until the hitch locked, then I could start rolling. Having to use chocks will make that process even more of a pain.
I have been considering buying a 5er to replace my travel trailor and I have a short bed too. Have you seen the easyglide hitches? (I think that is what they are called). They move automatically when you are manuvering, using cams built into the hitch. Seems like it might be the answer. You wouldn't need to do anything to set the hitch for manuvering and it would also be alot safer in an emergency stop where a jackknife might occur.
The automatic slider are nice. But you pay for that as well.
joeturner, did you try to adjust the controller all the way up? This is how I do a pull test when hitching. It wont lock the trailer tires but it does allow the rear springs to really compress and not allow the truck to move with quite a bit of throttle applied to ensure that the hitch is latched. I haven't tried to slide my Reese 16K slider with it as I haven't seen a need to use it. Bought it for piece of mind when I was towing with my 6-3/4 bed F150. Now towing with 6-3/4 bed F-250 and still have yet to use it. One other thing, check the adjustment of the trailer brakes. Like I said, I haven't tried to move the slider on mine but I can't inmagine it not movin the way my trailer brakes grab.
find brake wire in cab(cut) and attach it to the center of a double throw switch. connect the wire comming from the controller to one of the terminals and fused 12v to the other. you should be able to find a on/momentary switch so as to not be able to leave 12v applied to the brakes. another idea
The built-in trailer brake controller only puts out about 2.7 Vdc with the manual slider engaged when stopped. Apparently this is the way it is supposed to operate. That is not enough to lock the trailer brakes in order to slide a 5th wheel slider back & forth in the bed. Has anyone addressed this issue?
'05 F250 6.0
Pull the trailer's break-away cord to lock the brakes, adjust your hitch and reinsert the break-away plug.
Last edited by sanpanchosue; May 17, 2005 at 04:03 PM.
Make REAL sure the trailer electrical connector isn't plugged into the tow vehicle before you do this; if it is, you can kiss your brake controller good-bye!
Make REAL sure the trailer electrical connector isn't plugged into the tow vehicle before you do this; if it is, you can kiss your brake controller good-bye!