PIP sensor - circuit failed
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PIP sensor - circuit failed
1993 3.0 XL with 233,000 miles. In the last month I've replaced the ignition coil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, MAF sensor, throttle position sensor, air charge temp sensor, and had the ignition module tested (5 times). AFTER all that, the check engine light came on and I scanned the codes and it told me the "profile ignition pick-up sensor - circuit failed". I cleared the codes and ran the scan again (KOEO and KOER) and got no codes. It still misfires or something that seems almost like a failed plug or clogged fuel filter. In the last month I've also changed the fuel filter, had the fuel system pressure tested, and had the throttle body and injectors cleaned. It seems like something electrical, but I can't pinpoint it. Could it be something in the distributer? I've read through several threads, and gotten a few ideas, but need more input.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: San Diego
I have often found that mystery electrical problems are caused by bad grounds.
I dont know where they key grounds are on the aerostar are located but when I find out I will solder the wires to the lugs or connectors and reattach them.
I dont know where they key grounds are on the aerostar are located but when I find out I will solder the wires to the lugs or connectors and reattach them.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Just to let you know one of the grounds is a green wire secured to the top starter bolt and the other end is secured to the frame by another bolt.
I noticed this wire while replacing my starter on my 96 Aero I remember I tucked it away and almost forgot to reattach it if you ever had your starter replaced make sure its bolted to the starter bolt.
I noticed this wire while replacing my starter on my 96 Aero I remember I tucked it away and almost forgot to reattach it if you ever had your starter replaced make sure its bolted to the starter bolt.
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From: San Diego
You never know what a bad ground will do and how the power applied to a circuit will try to find a ground or backfeed some other circuit.
Thanks for the notes on where to find those grounds..
I will look for those and others.
Thanks for the notes on where to find those grounds..
I will look for those and others.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
If it is missfireing, I'd replace the PIP sensor. IT is located inside the distibutor. It is easier to replace the distibutor, than to tear your own distibutor apart to replace this part.
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I've looked at photos of the distributor and the "ignition pick-up". Is the ignition pick-up the same thing as the PIP sensor? Price wise, I like the thought of only replacing the ignition pick up. As for the ease of job, what's involved in either? I didn't realize the distributor was that big. How difficult is it to replace the distributor? Do I have to remove the distributor to replace the PIP sensor? If so, I may as well replace the whole thing rather than argue over the PIP sensor and risk damaging the distributor and/or have to replace the distributor afterwards anyway.
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I took it to a mechanic to get his opinion and the darned thing wouldn't act up for him!! That's the third mechanic to look at it and each time the van runs fine. Maybe the aerostar is allergic to me. They DID replace the radiator (something about it being part plastic and non-repairable) and a brake line, but they said it ran fine for them. Hopefully it has cured itself. We'll see.
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Former ******
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
If it is being intermittent, then have the connectors that plug into the PIP sensor, and the other connector, that plugs into the ignition module tested. In my van, the module failed to detect a pip signal by means of corroded terminals inside the ignition module connector. Yes the pickup coil and the PIP are one and the same. Yes, you must remove the distibutor to replace it. And it is extremely difficult to remove the distibutor shaft ot replace the coil. It took me over an hour to do that part alone, and I had to hit it with a brass hammer many times, and then had to grind down the flared edges that occured as part of the pounding. And yes, I used a piece of wood to protect it at first, but it didn't move, and it just drove the rod through the wood. It is more trouble than it is worth to replace the pip sensor. I say, buy a new distributor, and let the people with the experience and tools replace the pip.
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Is it one series of wires that run from the PIP sensor to the module? I'll make time to get in there and check the connections. I know I checked the connector on the module and it looked clean. Actually it looked really good considering the van's age and mileage! I'll check them again. If either, or both, are bad, do I just replace the connector, or do I replace the wiring from one to the other? How does that work? As for replacing the PIP sensor, I had already decided to replace the distributor as a whole and you last post solidified that decision.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Looking does nothing. Do a wiggle test. Wiggle it around and see if the problem goes away intermittently while you wiggle it. You can replace just the connector. The old wires must be cut, and properly reconnected and sealed. This is how ours was fixed. The PIP can be tested at the distributor. I'm not sure which color wire it is, but if you connect an LED test light between it and ground, it will flash as the engine cranks. You can also test it at the module end of the wire, and it should do the same there. In my van, it tested out on both ends, which made isolating the connecter quite difficult.
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