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I installed new master cylinder and brake booster, did new shoes in the rear and adjusted them, front shoes are good and I've bled them MULTIPLE times getting nothing but fluid. I still have crappy brakes, they need to be pumped at leat 3 times before I get any real good brakes. Would this happen if the parts guy gave me the caliper for the 2 piston fronts and not the 4 piston (which I have)? Any ideas as where to start to get this fixed?
just a suggestion that might help.pump up brake pedal to get pedal height & hold pedal depressed fairly firm.if pedal sinks slowly away than master u installed may be by-passing.i have had bad jobber masters in the past(maybe due to reman processes?).caliper shouldnt be relevant if bled properly.good luck with it
I installed new master cylinder and brake booster, did new shoes in the rear and adjusted them, front shoes are good and I've bled them MULTIPLE times getting nothing but fluid. I still have crappy brakes, they need to be pumped at leat 3 times before I get any real good brakes. Would this happen if the parts guy gave me the caliper for the 2 piston fronts and not the 4 piston (which I have)? Any ideas as where to start to get this fixed?
I have never seen 4 piston calipers for these trucks, usually they are dual piston per side
sounds like the rears didnt get fully adjusted, adjust each then hit the pedal to center the shoes, recheck.....you should get a constant "slight" drag, you can usually hear it before you feel it
btw, the fronts are called pads
pads for disc brakes, shoes for drum brakes
does the brake warning light work if its on your prportioning valve is not centered you will have to center it to get good brakes to check the light turn the key to start the warning light should come on if it doesn't check it
i think he means 4 total correct and it sounds like fluid is bypasing somewhere lots of times the rebults will be honed to biggere than 1'' on accident but there are no oversize pistons made so they will just through in a 1" oiston in a bigger hole allowinf fluid pressure to escape
on another thought are you bleeding you brakes by yourself if so you need to people because if you pump it then come out of the truck to close the bleeder you will have sucked air in you need to pump 3 times and the last time leave your foot fimly on th brake pedal pushing it to the floor while the bleeder is closed by your helper it is also best ot shut the bleeder while a steady stream of fluid is still come out usually half way through the last pump.and make sure to use dot 3 fluid a from a clean container and never reuse fluid.did you also make sure to bleed the front calipers too and start with the longest line and work done to the shortest line
i do mean 4 total pistons (sorry about the confusion). I am NOT bleeding them by myself, we pump 3 times and shut the bleeder about halfway through the last pump. We're gonna get a different caliper (another new one) and try that-its all thats left!!
i do mean 4 total pistons (sorry about the confusion). I am NOT bleeding them by myself, we pump 3 times and shut the bleeder about halfway through the last pump. We're gonna get a different caliper (another new one) and try that-its all thats left!!
Maybe i have been doing it wrong for the last 20 years, but, you are supposed to pump it up, then open the bleeder, then shut it without moving the pedal during the opening and closing.....if you pump it with the bleeder open you will be sucking air in everytime the pedal comes back up
What I ment was, pump 3 times (or until pedal gets hard), hold it on the last pump, break the bleeder open, and close it while the pedal is still going down. If we get air we do this until we get nothing but fluid.
This may sound silly......But are the calipers on the correct side? The bleeder screw has to be at the top of the caliper. Don't ask if I have ever made that mistake....I ain't tellin'.