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Brake Problem - Vacuum vs. Drum/Shoes

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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:41 AM
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Brake Problem - Vacuum vs. Drum/Shoes

I just bought a new (for me) Diesel 85 F250 2X4 last weekend and am in the process of getting it up to par. One of the problems is a hard brake pedal. The truck is in the shop for front end work (entirely different story) and while I had it in I asked to have them take a look at the vacuum system to see what would be needed to correct the hard brakes.

They come back saying that the rear drums and shoes need to be replaced (which I don't doubt) and that the wheel bearing will need to be repacked. Two questions:

- Will replacing drums and shoes solve my hard brake pedal?
- How difficult would it be to replace the drums and shoes (and repack the bearing) myself?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:44 AM
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your hard brake pedal is most likely caused by a failed vacuum pump.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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The hard pedal is usually a vacuum problem problem (very common) replacing shoes and drums will not correct this. Which bearings are they talking about repacking the front ones I hope.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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I figured that the hard brakes were related to the vacuum and not from the brakes themselves based on other posts here. I assume that the shop was talking about the rear bearings because he didn't mention anything about the front brakes
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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You don't repack the rear bearings they oil from the rearend no grease in them so they cannot be repacked.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by starmilt
You don't repack the rear bearings they oil from the rearend no grease in them so they cannot be repacked.

I second this. I replace rear bearings and noticed no grease, but differential gear fluid. thought its was strange so I asked around and I recieved the same answer.

replacing the rear bearings was not a hard job. easily done in a couple of hours.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Happyreefer
I second this. I replace rear bearings and noticed no grease, but differential gear fluid. thought its was strange so I asked around and I recieved the same answer.

replacing the rear bearings was not a hard job. easily done in a couple of hours.
True the rear wheel bearings are oiled by the rearend gear oil, but when installing new ones, it's always good practice to pack them with grease so they get a good lube till the oil makes it's way out to the bearings.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
True the rear wheel bearings are oiled by the rearend gear oil, but when installing new ones, it's always good practice to pack them with grease so they get a good lube till the oil makes it's way out to the bearings.

you are right, I did pack them when installed. should have mentioned it.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Hard pedal is no vacuum boost.

If the heater only blow out the defrost vents, either a vacuum leak or dead vacuum pump.

If you can move where the heater air blows, then the vacuum pump may be weak or the booster may be going bad.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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Thanks for all the good input. I think I'll try to tackle the vacuum system this weekend and replace the brakes and get the bearings taken care of some other weekend. As far as where the heater is blowing, not a whole lot I can do about it since all the ventilation tubes have been taken off (just another of the many things that needs repair). Hopefully the worst of winter is behind me...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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I have never packed a drive wheel bearing. What I always do is coat it with 90 weight and put a little gear oil in the hub before reinstalling it.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Went out and picked up a vacuum gauge and sure enough absolutely no vacuum coming off the vacuum pump. So I guess the next step is to buy a replacement and install it. Has anybody out there done this before? The Chilton manual makes it sound like a fairly simple project, but I just want to be aware of any potential issues any of you may have had.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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It is a simple project, unless you encounter a stuck bolt or something.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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Two 10 MM bolts takes the bracket loose.
Now pull it up where you can remove the vacuum line.

When you get the new pump, you need to get the pulley off the old pump and onto the new one.

Power Steering pump pulley puller/installer is the only tool to use here.
Presses and gear pullers will damage the pulley before it moves.
This is close to the one I use.

Power Steering pulley puller/installer

Watch which one you get, the vacuum pump pulley is a bit concave and some of the pullers will not fit in the hub groove right.
When I bought mine, they were out of the right one, so I modified the one they had with a grinder so it would work.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:26 AM
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back when i had the fleet of trucks, i would just change the pulley because they were only $22.
i don't know what they cost now though.
 
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