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Ford390, even if you went richer on the choke to a point were your overly rich and stumbling fat, the choke will open up long before that FE will be up to half of nornal temperature. The Electric choke opens up before 600 pounds of iron even gets to 130 degrees Fahrenheit. Lean stumble until your close to normal temperature. If you add a resistor you can lengthen the on choke time but you must check also for full open choke at operating temperature.
Carl....=o&o>....
i agree with the resistor but if you hook it up to the stator terminal on the alt isn't there already a resistor built in it does take a while for these to heat up and make sure to set the fast idle correct.
ford390, the heater in the cap is your resistor, adding a 50 watt in line would lower the current meaning less heat. There is a "surplus store" near me that has 50 watt resistors inside a finned housing (cooling). I would guess .75 to 2 ohms to slow down the choke opening rate but whould have to check for full open when up to normal temp. Testing in the future.
ford390, the heater in the cap is your resistor, adding a 50 watt in line would lower the current meaning less heat. There is a "surplus store" near me that has 50 watt resistors inside a finned housing (cooling). I would guess .75 to 2 ohms to slow down the choke opening rate but whould have to check for full open when up to normal temp. Testing in the future.
Carl....=o&o>....
Or you can just go to the car parts store and ask for a replacement ballast resister for an ignition system for an older car (alot of the '50s and '60s era cars had them). The feed off the stator terminal on the alternator is used because there is only power there when the engine is running. If you come off the ignition side of the coil and you leave the key on the choke will heat and open even without the engine running, the stator won't.
Slower opening choke..............that's ME just waiting longer to push the little **** in on the dash...........LOL!!!!
My '69 and '67 have factory manual chokes.........and I LUV THEM!!!
I tried electric models before, and just never got them set the way I wanted. Yes, they are automatic and no worry. But the upside of manual is you can leave it on longer, if you want. If you need to raise the RPM to help jump a battery you can just pull it out a bit(kinda like a manual throttle), or any other type of scenario. Never had one freeze up, since I use it pretty regularly. The factory type cable is pretty stout piece(not like cheap aftermarket junk).
I always remove the choke plate from carb so I can pull throttle up alot and not shut off air supply. It starts just as easy, a simple pump on throttle and it fires up even in dead of winter.
I always remove the choke plate from carb so I can pull throttle up alot and not shut off air supply. It starts just as easy, a simple pump on throttle and it fires up even in dead of winter.
Mark me: MANUAL CHOKE 1
Auto Choke 0
Choke!?! We don't need no stinkin choke!
I've been waiting for that. I had to run one (cold for Denver) winter without a choke, 4 pumps it was started, three minutes to the on ramp and the top end was lubed. The rest was highway driving between work and home. The only trick was to feather the go pedal to keep the motor running at stop signs.
I've been waiting for that. I had to run one (cold for Denver) winter without a choke, 4 pumps it was started, three minutes to the on ramp and the top end was lubed. The rest was highway driving between work and home. The only trick was to feather the go pedal to keep the motor running at stop signs.
I did the no choke plate for years when I raced my daily drivers, with a 406 3X2 set up on a 428CJ, even in the winter in Wichita, Kansass. But I'm older and wiser (read lazier and don't care about going fast myself anymore) so I use chokes, and making them work right isn't rocket science, they are very simple mechanisms.
I'm older and wiser (read lazier and don't care about going fast myself anymore) so I use chokes, and making them work right isn't rocket science, they are very simple mechanisms.
Those were lean times for me. I also had the secondaries blocked off. Eventually a chebby guy at work sold a different model Holly to me for $20, enough parts to resurect the 4160.
When I swap to the 4v (different motor) I'll go manual. I found a real manual choke mechanism at the junkyard, forget converting the round housing.
Those were lean times for me. I also had the secondaries blocked off. Eventually a chebby guy at work sold a different model Holly to me for $20, enough parts to resurect the 4160.
When I swap to the 4v (different motor) I'll go manual. I found a real manual choke mechanism at the junkyard, forget converting the round housing.
I was in the military for the second half of the 60s and with two war zone tours had enough stripes that money wasn't an issue until I got married and even then it wasn't to bad because I was on my second hitch and was career status and they paid me more. Beside I was the head guy of the car club on base and ran the drags on one of the taxiways, can you say concrete launch pad for a whole 1/4 mile.
I remove the plate so I can pull the HIGH idle up without choking the air off. If you leave the plate on, pull the choke full, it will flood out sooner or later. Mine won't, ever. Mine never stumbles, but it's a stick also.
I remove the plate so I can pull the HIGH idle up without choking the air off. If you leave the plate on, pull the choke full, it will flood out sooner or later. Mine won't, ever. Mine never stumbles, but it's a stick also.
Not if you adjust the choke linkage right. When I ran my '66 Cyclone with the 427 in stock classes you had to have the choke in place and never once did I have the problem you discribed. Chokes and the linkage, expecially the pull off function are adjustable for just this reason.
Yes, they do work right...if that is what you want. I always hated the set up, that is why I removed the plate and used high idle cam only. Most all my motors have not been too stock, so this type of choke never worked very well for me.
That's what is great about this........to each his own.
Yes, they do work right...if that is what you want. I always hated the set up, that is why I removed the plate and used high idle cam only. Most all my motors have not been too stock, so this type of choke never worked very well for me.
That's what is great about this........to each his own.
And a 410hp (a low number lie) 427 is a stocker only because the factory built it, but idle at 500 rpm it never would.
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