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Old May 2, 2005 | 03:57 PM
  #1  
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Manual choke ,Electric???

I just bought a new carb for my 360 for my 53 f-100 and was wondering if you all could give me the ups and downs of manual or electric choke .Thanks so much fellas. DJ
 
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Old May 2, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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Manual choke won't fail on you. Auto choke might but not likely and it's something you don't have to remember to pull on cold mornings. It's Coke and Pepsi.
 
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Old May 2, 2005 | 09:40 PM
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Here's my 2 cents. My truck is manual choke...the wife can't drive it because she can't start it...LOL. Seriously, the electric choke is nice because you don't have to deal with it. It costs enough more though that I usually go manual.
 
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Old May 2, 2005 | 11:41 PM
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My preference is the electric choke. Well worth the extra $$$. It is easier...at least in my case. All you need is a (+) pos with ignition "ON" and all is good. I did not have the manual choke cable...and drilling holes in the firewall has never been fun for me.

Just my $.02

 
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Old May 2, 2005 | 11:51 PM
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i have had both but i am a fan of the elctric it is almost idiot proof if someone else uses your truck they won't leave it on and wash down the cylinder walls with gas i have had it happen added a quart of gas to the oil
 
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Old May 2, 2005 | 11:55 PM
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I have one of each choke in my vehicles .The manual choke cable seems to need lube or it sticks / drags .
The electric seems to work the best but the holley 600 choke mechanism seems to give me trouble and not let the butterfly valve close . It does open properly though and all you do is run a wire to the stator terminal on the alternator .
 
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Old May 3, 2005 | 02:05 AM
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I switched to electric choke (670 SA) but the one drawback is the that it opens within two minutes and a FE takes over five minutes to normal temp. The early heaters from carbs 15 to 20 years old open the choke a little slower. Thinking about adding a low resistance 50 watt resistor to lower the heating element temperature but not to prevent full open choke. Testing, testing.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old May 3, 2005 | 06:31 AM
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Lectrik, the idiot behind the wheel can't remember to push the thingie back in.

John
 
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Old May 3, 2005 | 11:39 AM
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I prefer Manual choke myself. The folks with auto chokes always seem to have problems with them. After driving both types, its manual for me. And no one drives my truck but me so that is not an issue .To start it cold, I just pull the choke cable out, pump the pedal twice to squirt some gas in, and she fires up immediatly, it will not start cold unless you pump the pedal.
 
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Old May 3, 2005 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
I switched to electric choke (670 SA) but the one drawback is the that it opens within two minutes and a FE takes over five minutes to normal temp. The early heaters from carbs 15 to 20 years old open the choke a little slower. Thinking about adding a low resistance 50 watt resistor to lower the heating element temperature but not to prevent full open choke. Testing, testing.

Carl....=o&o>....
To cure this, run a wire off the + terminal of the coil. The lower voltage will make the choke come off slower. The + terminal wire already has a resistor in it. Don't need to add anything. The early carbs used the resistor wire. For the choke off fast, you can thank the EPA. EPA motto "If we can do anything to make and engine run like crap, DO IT!"
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 12:24 AM
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From: "Islander"
Bear 45/70, years ago before the 68 was smog exempt in Kalifornia I install a Holley TBI system. It ran clean but wasn't legal so I had to install a carb to make more smog to pass the visual. "SCREW 'EM".

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
To cure this, run a wire off the + terminal of the coil. The lower voltage will make the choke come off slower. The + terminal wire already has a resistor in it. Don't need to add anything. The early carbs used the resistor wire. For the choke off fast, you can thank the EPA. EPA motto "If we can do anything to make and engine run like crap, DO IT!"
That's really good info. I was wondering why my electric choke seemed fast...now I will have that resolved.

 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by biz4two
That's really good info. I was wondering why my electric choke seemed fast...now I will have that resolved.

never ever run it off the coil the coil will lose voltage and cause bad performance and the resistor is only rated for a few amps max the heater takes 8 amps to operate it operates all the time and the coil needs 6 amps to operate so that would draw 14 amps through a line meant for only 6 that coould cause a fire or short out the electrical system and to adjust how long the chokes stays on you loosen the 3 screws and turn it back towards the words rich and lean if you want it to come off sooner
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 01:15 AM
  #14  
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From: "Islander"
Ford390, even if you went richer on the choke to a point were your overly rich and stumbling fat, the choke will open up long before that FE will be up to half of nornal temperature. The Electric choke opens up before 600 pounds of iron even gets to 130 degrees Fahrenheit. Lean stumble until your close to normal temperature. If you add a resistor you can lengthen the on choke time but you must check also for full open choke at operating temperature.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old May 4, 2005 | 01:22 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
Bear 45/70, years ago before the 68 was smog exempt in Kalifornia I install a Holley TBI system. It ran clean but wasn't legal so I had to install a carb to make more smog to pass the visual. "SCREW 'EM". Carl....=o&o>....
Aren't polititians and government morons (know as employees) smart. Their stupidity in dealing with things they know nothing about alway seems to surprise me, even after all these years. Any person with an ounce of common sense wouldn't care about looks, but function; then again look at gun control, same thing.
 
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