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Just finished completly rebuilding my 390 ie: master kit,tons of machine work, rebuilt heads etc.... and now my old rusty warped headers wont seal on the pretty newly ground ex ports. Quess its back to the parts store for a new set of headers. Anybody have any tips or tricks to remove the pass. side header.
Id like to just cut them off but that still leaves my with the install.
any help would be great
No, don't unbolt the motor, that's way to hard! I speak for a 2WD truck with a 390.... I was able to take off the starter and get my Hedmans out from the top to replace them with my new ceramic coated Hedmans 2 weeks ago. I was able to get the drivers side in from the bottom with the truck jacked up, so I didn't have to unbolt the motor at all! Good luck.
I have to agree w/ Ceetwarrior. I got a set of headers from a friend, and I kept burning up starters, and to get that off, I had to loosen the headers, and drop both kind of at the same time. Had to do the same thing to get them back up. Good Luck!
Exactly, as MacOffutt said, they both need to come off at the 'same time' its close but it works great. My trouble was not scratching my new ceramic coated ones going in. I wrapped them in the bag they came in and managed not to scratch them but it took a while. On my painted ones it didn't matter if I scratched them because the crappy paint just burns off after a few days anyway then rusts after that. I will never buy painted headers again.
Anyway, the first time I put my headers in I had my inner fenders off (as I was restoring my truck) and I was able to get the passenger side header in without even taking off the starter because I could twist the header sideways and slide it right in.
Hopefully I won't have any clearance issues with the crossmember. (1971 F-100 360 2wd w/ Pertronix, Edel Perf intake and 1407 carb) I know the painted headers aren't that great, but with a wife, two kids, and school, money is tight.
Let us know what you end up with and how the install goes.
Im in the same boat withya as far as money...It took me three years to be able to rebuild this motor. Every time Id get the money something else would break in the house or my wifes truck.....
As far as the headers Im looking at two different makes, the headman model #500-89100 or the hooker model# 520-6903. both are about the same price(149.00 &171.00) Kinda leaning toward the hookers unless someone could give me a reason not to.
Ironsled, I'd go with the Hedmans. I've ran two sets 89100 and 89106 (one painted and one coated) on my truck and they were/are awesome. Just make sure you get the new ball style collector! I had to contact Hedman to get a serial code for the box of which is which. Then I had to recall Summit and tell them what get me. They don't know which is which. So, I told them it was build code D or whatever, and they looked and were able to find me a new-stock set to guarantee me the right stuff as I paid over twice as much as a new header just for the sweet coating. I did that because my first hedmans set was old style collector then 6 months later I ordered a set for my neighbor and it was the new style. Same model everything but they don't say what it is.
I wasn't able to afford the coated on my first set, but after all the work ripping them back out a year later I wish I'd done it the first time now that I can afford it. But it ended up well because I just sold my older set on eBay for over $100 and almost got all my money back. Regaurdless headers are way better than exhaust manifolds if you get the right ones despite all the horror stories!
Last edited by ceetwarrior; Apr 29, 2005 at 03:41 PM.