cleaning fuel injectors
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cleaning fuel injectors
Is there a backyard method of cleaning my fuel injectors without having to send them out? I am aware of the fuel additives. My plan is to actually remove my fuel injectors. (98 ranger 2.5 liter engine 133,000 miles). Should I just replace the injectors? I am still getting a #1 cylinder misfire after the following.
-new plugs (bosch platinum)
-new wires
-new fuel filter
-clean MAF
-clean IAC
-ran seafoam through vacuum line & tank
-removed #1 cylinder new plugs and checked them out- appeared to be ok- still white only slight carbon around the outside of plug.
-tested #1 cylinder injector resistance and it is 14.6
I am picking up an upper intake manifold gasket set today, so I should be able to get a little bit deeper into this. Any suggestions?
-new plugs (bosch platinum)
-new wires
-new fuel filter
-clean MAF
-clean IAC
-ran seafoam through vacuum line & tank
-removed #1 cylinder new plugs and checked them out- appeared to be ok- still white only slight carbon around the outside of plug.
-tested #1 cylinder injector resistance and it is 14.6
I am picking up an upper intake manifold gasket set today, so I should be able to get a little bit deeper into this. Any suggestions?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
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From: Connecticut
Buy a single Motorcraft or Autolite Double Platinum plug and try it in the # 1 cylinder, see if that makes a difference.
Also, just for kicks, you might want to check out the wire harness running undeneath the truck on the drivers side:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=315257
Sounds like the ohms on the injector are within specs:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=282317
Also, just for kicks, you might want to check out the wire harness running undeneath the truck on the drivers side:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=315257
Sounds like the ohms on the injector are within specs:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=282317
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From: SW Va
My, you've been busy on this one Joleford!!!!
If you don't find any problem with the plug, or if swapping out the #1 plug as Rockledge suggested, doesn't fix it, I'd also test the new plug wires & spark plugs internal resistance.
Some have found widely ranging high resistance readings on the Bosch plugs for some reason.
The, plug wires should be about 1000 ohms per inch of length 30,000 ohms max.
Too high in resitance will make for a troublesome spark under stress.
Also cracked, or chipped intrnal or external plug ceramic insulators are a no no.
Over torquing a plug on installation can chnge it's gap or do unkindly internal things to it too!!!!
A light buttering of a good dielectric grease, like GE or Dowcorning , on the outside of the plug's ceramic insulator & the inside of the plug wires covering boot, will help prevent "flash~over" on wet humid days. Will make removing the wires easier next time too. I butter my plug wire boots on BOTH ends LOL
Let us know what you find.
If you don't find any problem with the plug, or if swapping out the #1 plug as Rockledge suggested, doesn't fix it, I'd also test the new plug wires & spark plugs internal resistance.
Some have found widely ranging high resistance readings on the Bosch plugs for some reason.
The, plug wires should be about 1000 ohms per inch of length 30,000 ohms max.
Too high in resitance will make for a troublesome spark under stress.
Also cracked, or chipped intrnal or external plug ceramic insulators are a no no.
Over torquing a plug on installation can chnge it's gap or do unkindly internal things to it too!!!!
A light buttering of a good dielectric grease, like GE or Dowcorning , on the outside of the plug's ceramic insulator & the inside of the plug wires covering boot, will help prevent "flash~over" on wet humid days. Will make removing the wires easier next time too. I butter my plug wire boots on BOTH ends LOL
Let us know what you find.
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Thanks for the advice pawpaw. Hopefully, I will get a chance to work some more on the ranger this weekend. I am still very suspicious of the injector. Does the injector's resistance have anything to do with how dirty it is? I mean could I still get a good resistance reading even with it being dirty? The reason I suspect the injector is that I got the #1 cylinder misfire BEFORE and AFTER I did all of the above mentioned attempted repairs. Great advice though guys and I will certainly put it to use.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
The injectors internal solenoids resistance reading is independant of the tips cleanleness.
The injectors electricals & fuel handeling parts are separate from each other.
Usually the misfire code is electrical in nature.
Can you feel the misfire????
If so, you could try substitution, one at a time, of an old plug & or wire from another cylinder that wasn't having problems before, to see if the misfire clears. If so then that part is ikely the root cause.
The reason I suggested resistance checks, is I've seen plenty of faulty new parts right out of the box.
So if you don't have an ohmeter to check resistance, just try the parts substitution scheme & see if you can narrow it down some more.
Check around the top of the coil pack too, it should be squeeky clean on top.
On a good injector cleaner, Texaco or Chevron petrol are good, but will take about 5 tanks to clean things up while you drive.
Or you could add a container of Chevron Techron, or Texaco Clean system 3, additive to a full tank of their gas & get things tidy in one tank, as the cleaners are then at 5x normal strength.
The injectors electricals & fuel handeling parts are separate from each other.
Usually the misfire code is electrical in nature.
Can you feel the misfire????
If so, you could try substitution, one at a time, of an old plug & or wire from another cylinder that wasn't having problems before, to see if the misfire clears. If so then that part is ikely the root cause.
The reason I suggested resistance checks, is I've seen plenty of faulty new parts right out of the box.
So if you don't have an ohmeter to check resistance, just try the parts substitution scheme & see if you can narrow it down some more.
Check around the top of the coil pack too, it should be squeeky clean on top.
On a good injector cleaner, Texaco or Chevron petrol are good, but will take about 5 tanks to clean things up while you drive.
Or you could add a container of Chevron Techron, or Texaco Clean system 3, additive to a full tank of their gas & get things tidy in one tank, as the cleaners are then at 5x normal strength.
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I do have an ohmmeter so I will check the resistance tonight. I can definitely feel the misfire. It is very sporatic. Some days/times it is worse than others, but is always there. It almost acts like a surging of power. The cel will come on, I have the codes pulled at autozone and it's always #1 cylinder misfire, then I reset it by removing the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes. Then a day or two later (sometimes up to a week) it will come back on. On a few occasions it will be on for a day or two and go off by itself. However, I can always feel the misfire to some degree, but never bad enough to make the vehicle stall.
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Another thing- I got the original cylinder #1 misfire before I changed the plugs & wires, and then got the same cylinder #1 misfire after changing the plugs and wires. If it is a resistance problem with the wires that would have to be a huge coincidence that two sets of plug wires were bad on the same cylinder right? That is why I am leaning more towards the injector. Does that make sense?
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From: SW Va
Yes that does make sense, but don't forget sometimes Murphys Law doesn't!!!!! LOL
You could also try swapping out the #1 injector with another cylinder thats easy to get to & see if the misfire will folow the #1 injector, that would answer your question about the fuel injector.
Seems to me though, if it were the injector misbehaving, you'd have some mixture codes & a unhappy O2 sensor.
Can you feel the miss at idle???? If so, can you see it on your scanner or timing light????
If you can, it's likely electrical.
Given your description of it being sort of random in nature, & going away for a few days, I'd suspect it's maybe electrically based.
Does it seem to happen or return after cold starts or on damp wet days????
Make shure the #1 wire is routed exactly as the factory had it & it's tight fitting on the plug & coilpack & the plugs external insulators & plug boots are clean & buttered with dielectric grease to prevent flashover on those damp wet days.
On swapping or changing things around, don't do more than one change at a time, then test, so when you finally get a positive result, you'll know why.
Stay with it, you'll find it.
Keep us posted on your results.
You could also try swapping out the #1 injector with another cylinder thats easy to get to & see if the misfire will folow the #1 injector, that would answer your question about the fuel injector.
Seems to me though, if it were the injector misbehaving, you'd have some mixture codes & a unhappy O2 sensor.
Can you feel the miss at idle???? If so, can you see it on your scanner or timing light????
If you can, it's likely electrical.
Given your description of it being sort of random in nature, & going away for a few days, I'd suspect it's maybe electrically based.
Does it seem to happen or return after cold starts or on damp wet days????
Make shure the #1 wire is routed exactly as the factory had it & it's tight fitting on the plug & coilpack & the plugs external insulators & plug boots are clean & buttered with dielectric grease to prevent flashover on those damp wet days.
On swapping or changing things around, don't do more than one change at a time, then test, so when you finally get a positive result, you'll know why.
Stay with it, you'll find it.
Keep us posted on your results.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Englewood, CO
I've seen this very thing on a different brand of vehicle. My wife's van had this very same exact issue. I changed the plugs and wires twice and it didn't matter, still did it.
I had her go to Ford and buy their fuel injector cleaner. About 5 bucks a bottle. I poured it in. I also needed to replace the water pump, and while the van was idleing to make sure the coolant was full, it stopped missing. The SeaFoam is good for not damaging and preventative use. But to really clean a clogged injector, then use the Ford brand, it's the only stuff I've ever seen that actually works. All the rest seem to be for prevent gas line freeze up.
And I was giving a mis-fire code on a bank.
I had her go to Ford and buy their fuel injector cleaner. About 5 bucks a bottle. I poured it in. I also needed to replace the water pump, and while the van was idleing to make sure the coolant was full, it stopped missing. The SeaFoam is good for not damaging and preventative use. But to really clean a clogged injector, then use the Ford brand, it's the only stuff I've ever seen that actually works. All the rest seem to be for prevent gas line freeze up.
And I was giving a mis-fire code on a bank.
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Thanks guys, now I've got some more things to try. I can feel the miss all the time. The thing is I want to get this thing reliable enough to take some trips with this summer. Also, pawpaw, on switching around injectors. That is going to require a few trips into the intake manifold. Do I have to replace the gaskets every time? My local parts stores have to order them so that is going to be a pain. I have one upper intake manifold gasket set waiting to be picked up, so I should be good to get in there at least once.
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As far a injector cleaning goes I have found sending then off is best, next is the cleaner that comes in a pressurized can and hose that connects to the fuel rail. you disconnect the fuel line and disable the fuel pump, connect the cleaner cannister and it runs the engine for about 5 mins. (3m or dupont I think makes em for about $40.00). They work pretty well. The fuel additives don't do much for really dirty injectors.
Dave
Dave
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From: SW Va
Well I don't rightly know about the gaskets Joelford.
But seem to me, if you carefully go in there & do a swap one time & save the new gasket set until you have your injector answer, that might be one viable way to approcah it.
If you decide to feed more Seafoam, Ford injector cleaner, or the pressuerized injector cleaner, in it, I'd maybe try them before doing the injector swapout or installing the new gasket set.
I'd also consider opting for an oil & filter change afterward, if you run more injector cleaner trough it.
You could also try listening to the injector while it's running, to see if you can hear anything with the injectors "click" that coinsides with the miss you feel. Or if it sounds different than the oters.
You can fashion a stethoscope from a broom handle, one end on the injector, the other to your ear.
Between watching the timing light & listening to the injector, you should be able to decide on something.
Then decide on what to do about injector replacemnt or a professional cleaning that Dave was talking about.
But seem to me, if you carefully go in there & do a swap one time & save the new gasket set until you have your injector answer, that might be one viable way to approcah it.
If you decide to feed more Seafoam, Ford injector cleaner, or the pressuerized injector cleaner, in it, I'd maybe try them before doing the injector swapout or installing the new gasket set.
I'd also consider opting for an oil & filter change afterward, if you run more injector cleaner trough it.
You could also try listening to the injector while it's running, to see if you can hear anything with the injectors "click" that coinsides with the miss you feel. Or if it sounds different than the oters.
You can fashion a stethoscope from a broom handle, one end on the injector, the other to your ear.
Between watching the timing light & listening to the injector, you should be able to decide on something.
Then decide on what to do about injector replacemnt or a professional cleaning that Dave was talking about.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Elk Lake ON. Canada
Have you checked your compression on you motor. I had a motor run bad and it turned out to be a bad cylinder. (low or no compression)
I could be way off but I had one that did the same! And for your sake, Lets hope not!
Steve
I could be way off but I had one that did the same! And for your sake, Lets hope not!
Steve
Last edited by Steve's Beast; Apr 30, 2005 at 02:16 AM.
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I installed autolite double platinum plugs in the #1 cylinder, and attempted to check the ohms of resistance in the two #1 cylinder wires. One was about six inches long boot to boot, and the other was about 13. I'm not real familiar with using a multimeter, but on the ohm setting I was getting a reading of 5.3 on the longer wire, and 2.4 on the shorter wire. Are these parts ok? By the way, after installation of the new plugs, the truck still has a small miss, but has not thrown the cel again- yet. Thanks.