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Did I just kill my Ignition?

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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 12:34 PM
  #1  
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Unhappy Did I just kill my Ignition?

I have a 95 350 PS. It's been through a lot, has 212000 miles and was rode hard and put away wet before I got it.

The ignition is loose, it'll turn, etc without a key. But to turn over, I needed a key. Today I was running late for something, left my keys in the house and already had my shoes on. So I stuck an extra house key in the ignition and cranked it up. I was pleasantly suprised it worked, and went were I needed to go. But it didn't work to get home (damn!). And I even borrowed a thinner car key, and the ignition (outside silver part) will turn but the inside part won't at all. Now I'm going to go back out with my keys and try it later, but I'm worried that I just crapped my ignition. Did I?

If so...what am I looking at for replacement or can I just, um, hot-wire it? I wouldn't mind, my poor truck is already ghetto enough as it is and it'll take a small fortune to get it working right.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 12:45 PM
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I think if you put the right key into the lock it'll turn. Hope so.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 12:48 PM
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Ha, me too *whimper*
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 01:11 PM
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cleatus12r
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From: Reed Point, MT
Replacing the ignition lock cylinder is a PIECE OF CAKE!! (so long as the original key still turns the ignition to the "run" position)

You can get one at NAPA or the Stealership, it doesn't matter.
Here's how to do it:
1: Locate hole in bottom of steering column shroud right below the lock cylinder...the hole is next to a screw hole. You'll see a 'button' when you look up through the hole.
2: Sit in driver's seat
3: Turn the ignition switch to the 'run' position.
4: With a pick or punch (small tip approx 1/8"), push up on the button that's inside the hole in the column shroud.
5: Pull out the lock cylinder.
6: Install new lock cylinder (will come with new key).

The keys you'll get with the new lock cylinder will be cut on the end of the key with a blank area towards the fat end. Take the original key and have the upper end cut to match (this way your new keys work with the door lock cylinders).

Cody
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cleatus12r
(so long as the original key still turns the ignition to the "run" position)
That's what I'm worried about, that the ignition won't turn with the correct key. I bet I'm over-reacting, but how common would that be??

Thanks for the info though, it's prolly time I changed that out.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 01:25 PM
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cleatus12r
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From: Reed Point, MT
I did one Friday on a van that had no keys..... Ugh. Pretty well can say you'll spend about a half-hour hammering (big screwdriver and vice-grips, too), but it's very do-able if your key won't turn the cylinder....which it should ( I wouldn't worry). It's a pretty common occurence to have the chrome piece turn without the cylinder, too. Mine does it and it's annoying at times because the chrome piece has to be lined up with the slot in the cylinder for the key to go all the way in. Oh well, I'm cheap.
Here's the trick to one that won't turn...
Get an 1/8" punch and a hammer and FORCE the locking pin into the cylinder...that way it doesn't have to be in the 'run' position for the button to be pushed up and the cylinder to come out.


Cody
 
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 01:28 PM
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Well, the key coming out with the lock in a position other than "lock" isn't that uncommon.
 
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