Now what? Ignition? Fuel?
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Now what? Ignition? Fuel?
Just got my 88 F-150 XLT Lariat (351 dual tanks) back from having both front and rear fuel pump/sending assemblies replaced. Finally the gas gauges are working and both tanks seem to be feeding just fine.
Drove it home from the shop no problems whatsoever. Went to start it three days later and it's dead. The battery is fully charged so that isn't the problem. I noticed when attempting to start it that the key would turn all the way and not come back...so to speak. Prior to this last trip to the shop for the fuel sending assemblies, I had already replaced the ignition switch and the ignition key assembly so am wondering what the hell is wrong now.
The one thing that bothers me is the rod that activates the ignition switch seems to have a lot more play in it now than I remember it having back when I swapped out the switch and the key assembly.
The steering wheel is off, the ignition switch is off and I'm trying to troubleshoot what the issue could be. One day everything is great and the next the only way I even get battery power is when the key is turned to start...and it feels like there is no spring to switch from start to run.
As I said, the rod coming from the key assembly seems to have more play than I remember. Something is telling me that is the problem. When I turn the key, it just flops around and has a huge amount of play.
I hope I've described my problem to an extent where someone can point me in the direction to troubleshoot the issue and fix it. I really don't want to have it towed and drop more coin than I need to.
Thanks.
Drove it home from the shop no problems whatsoever. Went to start it three days later and it's dead. The battery is fully charged so that isn't the problem. I noticed when attempting to start it that the key would turn all the way and not come back...so to speak. Prior to this last trip to the shop for the fuel sending assemblies, I had already replaced the ignition switch and the ignition key assembly so am wondering what the hell is wrong now.
The one thing that bothers me is the rod that activates the ignition switch seems to have a lot more play in it now than I remember it having back when I swapped out the switch and the key assembly.
The steering wheel is off, the ignition switch is off and I'm trying to troubleshoot what the issue could be. One day everything is great and the next the only way I even get battery power is when the key is turned to start...and it feels like there is no spring to switch from start to run.
As I said, the rod coming from the key assembly seems to have more play than I remember. Something is telling me that is the problem. When I turn the key, it just flops around and has a huge amount of play.
I hope I've described my problem to an extent where someone can point me in the direction to troubleshoot the issue and fix it. I really don't want to have it towed and drop more coin than I need to.
Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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Two possible problems. The return spring is in the ignition switch. This is on top of the steering column under the dash and connected back up the column to the key switch by a rod and a piece called the actuator.
You may have a faulty ign. switch however, more likely, the ign. actuator is broken (quite common).
To check this, with the steering wheel off, remove the three screws holding the turn signal mounting plate and unscrew the turn signal stalk and lift the plate off over the steering shaft (there will be just enough length in the wires to let you do this). Now remove the three screws holding the column shroud and pull it off with the key switch assembly.
You will now see the pot metal actuator. If it needs replaced it is only around $10.00.
Good luck.
You may have a faulty ign. switch however, more likely, the ign. actuator is broken (quite common).
To check this, with the steering wheel off, remove the three screws holding the turn signal mounting plate and unscrew the turn signal stalk and lift the plate off over the steering shaft (there will be just enough length in the wires to let you do this). Now remove the three screws holding the column shroud and pull it off with the key switch assembly.
You will now see the pot metal actuator. If it needs replaced it is only around $10.00.
Good luck.
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Looks like I'm the lazy one, since it has taken me a month to get out there and get back at it.
I found the three screws to take off the turn signal mounting plate. Problem is I couldn't unscrew the turn signal stalk once the mounting plate was removed. I put two of the screws back in the mounting plate, and tried to unscrew the stalk using a set of vice grips. I didn't use too much pressure since I didn't want something else to break and end up fixing. It didn't budge so I soaked it in WD-40 and will get back to it after I hear if I'm doing things right.
Does it matter if the mounting plate is mounted when unscrewing the stalk? Are the stalks usually really "on there"?
My SO wants to get some mulch and has made it clear that the truck needs to be on the road ASAP now that I dropped the coin to get the fuel system working. (She's the one who has cursed the truck. Every time she gets behind the wheel it costs me and it was her who turned the key when it crapped the bed.) Anyway, you all know good and well who always wins that argument so I'm gonna do as I'm told....
Thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction. I did buy the pot metal actuator piece since I really don't see what else it could be. Amazing that Ford used such a POS quality part in such an important place.
I found the three screws to take off the turn signal mounting plate. Problem is I couldn't unscrew the turn signal stalk once the mounting plate was removed. I put two of the screws back in the mounting plate, and tried to unscrew the stalk using a set of vice grips. I didn't use too much pressure since I didn't want something else to break and end up fixing. It didn't budge so I soaked it in WD-40 and will get back to it after I hear if I'm doing things right.
Does it matter if the mounting plate is mounted when unscrewing the stalk? Are the stalks usually really "on there"?
My SO wants to get some mulch and has made it clear that the truck needs to be on the road ASAP now that I dropped the coin to get the fuel system working. (She's the one who has cursed the truck. Every time she gets behind the wheel it costs me and it was her who turned the key when it crapped the bed.) Anyway, you all know good and well who always wins that argument so I'm gonna do as I'm told....
Thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction. I did buy the pot metal actuator piece since I really don't see what else it could be. Amazing that Ford used such a POS quality part in such an important place.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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You really need to get the stalk off to let you lift the plate up over the steering shaft and to let the column shroud come up and off.
Mine unscrewed easily, guess you got lucky and it is seized.
You would be better soaking it with a good penetrating fluid rather than WD40 but it may work.
I would think it would be easier to work with if you kept the plate held down with the screws while removing the stalk.
Mine unscrewed easily, guess you got lucky and it is seized.
You would be better soaking it with a good penetrating fluid rather than WD40 but it may work.
I would think it would be easier to work with if you kept the plate held down with the screws while removing the stalk.
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Thanks Lazy K, it's easy to see why you're a postmaster. You obviously know your stuff.
A good dose of PB Blaster allowed to soak overnight did the trick. The stalk twisted right off. Now onto the next issues...
Got everything off and realized I couldn't get the broken piece out. That's when I first realized there is a tilt mechanism for the steering column. OK, broken piece is out but there is no way to get the new piece in. There's just not enough room to fit it past the tilting mechanism from what I could see. I'm guessing I'll have to remove the tilting mechanism but only saw what looked like two setscrews holding it in. Based on the way that puppy flipped when I popped it, I'm guessing taking off the tilting mechanism could be hazardous to one's health.
I'm so close to getting this resolved it's driving me nuts. (Obviously I never got the mulch and have been instructed that this is getting to the top of the "honey do" list)
Any other pointers for getting the new piece installed? Does the tilting mechanism need to be removed or did I just miss something? If the mechanism does need to be removed, what tool will remove the setscrews and how do I keep it from flying off at mach speed?
Much thanks!!!!
A good dose of PB Blaster allowed to soak overnight did the trick. The stalk twisted right off. Now onto the next issues...
Got everything off and realized I couldn't get the broken piece out. That's when I first realized there is a tilt mechanism for the steering column. OK, broken piece is out but there is no way to get the new piece in. There's just not enough room to fit it past the tilting mechanism from what I could see. I'm guessing I'll have to remove the tilting mechanism but only saw what looked like two setscrews holding it in. Based on the way that puppy flipped when I popped it, I'm guessing taking off the tilting mechanism could be hazardous to one's health.
I'm so close to getting this resolved it's driving me nuts. (Obviously I never got the mulch and have been instructed that this is getting to the top of the "honey do" list)
Any other pointers for getting the new piece installed? Does the tilting mechanism need to be removed or did I just miss something? If the mechanism does need to be removed, what tool will remove the setscrews and how do I keep it from flying off at mach speed?
Much thanks!!!!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Saukville WI
YEs there is a tool and its not dangerous either you thread it in then screw the nut out and the pins pop out. Even installation is easy just takes a little patience. good luck!! If your lucky you will have a shop that could let you borrow one or, take the whole column to the shop and maybe do it for ya for free!
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Thanks donnie, that looks like it would definitely get the job done. No doubt something will need to be threaded to the steering shaft to keep the tilt mechanism from flying off and giving my dentist some new work to do.
I don't know that I've developed the relationship with the shop who did the other work on the truck to where they'd just let me borrow their stuff. As far as pulling the whole steering column goes, I'd rather just buy the tool than go through that.
Is that the type of tool Advanced Auto would "loan" or is it so specialized that it's a purchase only type of thing? I hate to purchase it since it'll only be used once. Maybe I can find a used one or a cheap one on ebay.
I'm still wondering why pot metal was used instead of aluminum for the deceased part. I guess it's all about saving a buck wherever possible.
Thanks for the heads up regarding the tool required. There are some seriously knowledgeable people here. That's a good thing for us dumba--es!!!
Thanks guys!
I don't know that I've developed the relationship with the shop who did the other work on the truck to where they'd just let me borrow their stuff. As far as pulling the whole steering column goes, I'd rather just buy the tool than go through that.
Is that the type of tool Advanced Auto would "loan" or is it so specialized that it's a purchase only type of thing? I hate to purchase it since it'll only be used once. Maybe I can find a used one or a cheap one on ebay.
I'm still wondering why pot metal was used instead of aluminum for the deceased part. I guess it's all about saving a buck wherever possible.
Thanks for the heads up regarding the tool required. There are some seriously knowledgeable people here. That's a good thing for us dumba--es!!!
Thanks guys!
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Post Fiend
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5629558 Follow the instructions here. You don`t need a special tool.
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Thanks Lazy K!!! That was just what the Dr. ordered.
I hit a snag at number 14 but gave the steering column and tilt actuator a douse of PB Blast since I couldn't pull the tilt collar off enough to get the new actuator/rod combo in. Either way, the instructions were clear and well defined so I am very grateful for you providing the link.
Hopefully she'll be firing up by this weekend. Lord knows there are quite a few screws to put it back together but I'll take my time and do my best to git r dun.
Thanks again for the link. I realized a search probably would have led me there but you provided the link without a scolding. That's rare these days on most forums I visit and I REALLY appreciate your patience.
I hit a snag at number 14 but gave the steering column and tilt actuator a douse of PB Blast since I couldn't pull the tilt collar off enough to get the new actuator/rod combo in. Either way, the instructions were clear and well defined so I am very grateful for you providing the link.
Hopefully she'll be firing up by this weekend. Lord knows there are quite a few screws to put it back together but I'll take my time and do my best to git r dun.
Thanks again for the link. I realized a search probably would have led me there but you provided the link without a scolding. That's rare these days on most forums I visit and I REALLY appreciate your patience.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
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I did this not too long ago on my 1990 Bronco. There's a better write up somewhere, one with pictures. This site sucks with the method of showing pictures. Good sites have the pictures show without having to click open another window.
Other good sites have this kind of procedures in the tech articles as sticky's.
Other good sites have this kind of procedures in the tech articles as sticky's.
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Beggars can't be choosers. If there is a better writeup with pictures, that would be awesome and I'd appreciate a link to them if you have them. Stating that this site sucks and bashing it seems a bit harsh since I had NO clue how to tackle this without the great help of those who have responded to my request. Not providing the links to substantiate your claim kind of makes you look like a whiner.
I've received great information and have almost licked the problem. The fact that the truck is over 20 years old and is a bit ornery isn't the fault of this site or the lack of pictures. I'm very grateful for the responses I've gotten since the problem is almost solved.
I don't need pics when the details are articulated as well as the link I was given. I hit a snag that no pic would cure. It's just a snag that will render itself out and the Beast will be firing up soon.
Why bash a site that provides information for free? If you have a site that you consider superior, please provide that link and I'll check it out as well. Nobody gave me any crap about not doing a search and all responses were helpful. What more can you ask?
I'll admit that I'm not quite as friendly when it comes to audio questions that I respond to on other sites as the folks here have been with my questions. This site gets five out of five stars in my book.
I've received great information and have almost licked the problem. The fact that the truck is over 20 years old and is a bit ornery isn't the fault of this site or the lack of pictures. I'm very grateful for the responses I've gotten since the problem is almost solved.
I don't need pics when the details are articulated as well as the link I was given. I hit a snag that no pic would cure. It's just a snag that will render itself out and the Beast will be firing up soon.
Why bash a site that provides information for free? If you have a site that you consider superior, please provide that link and I'll check it out as well. Nobody gave me any crap about not doing a search and all responses were helpful. What more can you ask?
I'll admit that I'm not quite as friendly when it comes to audio questions that I respond to on other sites as the folks here have been with my questions. This site gets five out of five stars in my book.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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You have to remove the snap ring that holds the little bearing in place (just below the steering wheel splines). The bearing then has to slide up the shaft with the yoke, so soaking it with penetrating fluid may help it to slide. You have, of course, fully removed the two hinge pins from the tilt mechanism? The yoke only needs to come towards you about an inch.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Saukville WI
let us know where your stuck kinda hard to tell when you say
i have a spare column if you need some pictures ill take it aparts and help ya as much as possible!
I still can't seem to get the yoke off far enough to install the new parts