Inspect the new mounting bushings included with the rebuilt rack before installing in the E-4WD. One set of mine had an extra metal shim sleeve inside the big metal bushing. This mixup created a huge problem today when installing the new rack. The shim is not supposed to be in there. (Details if anyone is interested, otherwise just an alert.)

 

Thanks for the info on the steering rack. I have a leak went I turn to the left only and seems to be the rack seals so will be changing it soon. I have 230000+ miles and runs very good.

 

Hi Aerocolorado:

How thick is that sleeve? I wonder why they even put it there in the first place? Anyway, I went through two set of steering gear rack with my Aerostar in one year. About more than a year ago I had a leak out the seal near the inner tierod, so I bought a Cardone rebuilt rack. The thing leaked immediately after I put it in, and I meant immediately, like 10 minutes. I brought it back for an exchange, and this one lasted about a year. So this time, I flushed out the pump, put in a Magnafine inline filter and a cooler for the steering fluid. The cooler makes all the difference. Before, it's hot enough to be really uncomfortable when I touched the fitting at the pump discharge after a long drive in the city. Now it's just warm to the touch. I would recommend the cooler. The cooler and the filter cost me about $45 + shipping altogether from bulkpart.com, but I think it's worth it.

I hope you don't have to go through what I did because I know how much of a hassle it took to remove that rack from the E-4WD Aerostar. Just looking at it scares me already.

Regards

 

copper,
The sleeve in question is a reducer bushing to take the mounting hole from 9/16" to 1/2" (roughly). This is the fourth rack - all Cardone - and my experience mirrors yours. The first rack leaked immediately and each successive one lasts around a year. After this many times the brain goes auto-pilot, especially with something as mundane as the mounting bushings. Pick 'em up, chuck 'em in the holes mount the rack. I failed to notice the bushing until I had the rack partially mounted with the big steel spacer in place and tried to insert the first bolt. The bolt went through the steel spacer then stopped. Thinking the steel spacer and the mounting bushing were not precisely aligned, I tapped the bolt (which has a tapered snout to act as a drift) to align the two pieces. This caused the bolt to wedge into the inner spacer. When the bolt would still not go through, I withdrew the bolt to see what was going on. The wedged sleeve was now pulled halfway out of the mounting bushing and halfway into the steel spacer. At this point, the bolt and spacer separated. The sleeve acted as a big pin preventing removal of the steel spacer. For whatever reason, I could not force the sleeve back into the mounting bushing in order to get the steel spacer out. If you can't get that spacer out, you can't remove the rack. I had to finally use a hacksaw between the steel bushing and rubber surface of the mounting bushing to cut the sleeve in two. I wasn't aware of what had happened until I got the steel spacer out and found the section of the sleeve lodged inside.

My '91 came with a factory P/S cooler already installed. I think it was part of the tow package option.

 

Aerocolorado:

Sorry to hear about your ordeal, especially the part about the hacksaw. From now on I'll heed my college adviser's advice: "I don't know how you do things where you came from, but here, before we get married, we must try things out first to make sure everything fits together." Wise man he was!

I hope this one lasts you more than another year. I certainly do not look forward to this annual event!!!!!!!!!

Regards

 

Well it lasted longer than one year but its leaking again just short of 3 years. I can't believe this! New rebuilt pump, new hoses and rebuilt rack all went in this last time. The PS fluid leaking out is crystal clear. Why oh why will these Cardone racks not last? Small consolation - it will be replaced under warranty but will still cost $$ for alignment afterwards.

 

the original shafts and bores get corroded and pitted after lasting 5>10 years or more.
most of the rebuilders do not polish grind the shafts and bores and then rechrome them
i don't know any that do
the rougher than OEM factory finish eats the new seals out far sooner than the OEM rack

not financially feasble to ship a rack to Mexico, professionally rebuild it with top line quality OEM parts and then ship it back to states, distribute it and sell it for less than $100

same problem with the pump. they don't micro polish the pump chamber and use expensive hardened vanes like OEM.

might check with Motorcraft on their rebuilt racks
don't know if a new OEM can even be bought anymore

the flex hoses are probably shot on the inside and breaking down, throwing debris into the PS fluid. change hoses
add an inline filter and change every 2>3 years. most of the damaging wear debris that takes out seals and pumps is smaller than can be seen with ey only.
new rebuilds all have a certain amount of metal cuttings

flush the pump and lines before hooking up replacement rack

 

96_4wdr,

Your explanation is likely dead on. I recall reading a rebuilder's journal article about how fierce the rack rebuild competition was these days and the upshot being very little profit. Obviously, there must be corners being cut and my experiences are likely a testament to that fact.

I shyed away from cheap end rebuilt transmissions for my son's Contour for the very same reasons. I don't know why I expect something different from rack rebuilders. Was it Einstein's definition of crazy - repeating the same thing and expecting a different outcome?

I'm only 27k short of my 300,000 mile goal. Dare I risk one more "free" Cardone rack?