When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I got a 1984 F150, 300i-6, 4-speed. I just put a new clutch in and had the flywheel resurfaced(-.020. Now it seems that the clutch is not disengaging enough to allow free shifting, as in grinding the gear. My question is, would removing .020 off the flywheel have any effect on the operation of the clutch or could I have another problem with the hydraulic clutch system. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave
***new clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throw out bearing
No removing .020 wont affect anything. I would put a new slave cylinder on AND clutch master cylinder.If one is bad,the other is sure to follow.If the slave cylinder doesnt have a bleeder in it its a pain to get the air out,but this should take care of your problem.Good luck Windsor
I picked up the Haynes manual for this truck and it says that the slave and master cylinders must be replaced as a unit because of the unavailability of individual parts. However my local parts store(Discount Auto Parts) carries the parts seperatly so I got a slave cylinder and tried to put it on only to find out it wouldn't fit. So here I am with a truck that won't go and parts that won't fit. HELP!PLEASE!ANYBODY!Thanks, Dave
The suggestion Danny made about the Bendix brand one is great . Take the one you bought from Discount back , tell them it wasnt the right part , get your money back . Next call other auto part stores & tell them what you need , ask what brand it is if they have one in stock . With auto parts you get what you pay for . Id personally rather spend a little more , get what I need the first time , otherwise any money you save is spent in aggravation & time the vehicle isnt running .
I have experienced this exact same problem with my 84 F250 with the 460 engine. The clutch was not fully disengaging when the pedal was pressed. I assumed the throwout bearing was shot so I pulled the trans and rebuilt the clutch completely. To my suprise it acted exactly the same after reassembly. So, I assumed next it was the hydraulics gone bad. Wrong, upon replacement of both master and slave same issue.
What I discovered was that the connection between the master cylinder push rod and the clutch actuater arm had worn and was allowing about 1/4" of slop in the connection if even that. (Believe me, this tiny bit of slop is enough to cause the problem) But this small amount of slop is what was preventing the master cylinder from fully operating the clutch. In 84 the push rod is not adjustable so I bought a newer one that was length adjustable and that cured my problem. Good thing to look at periodically and keep greased so it doesn't wear like mine did. Also there is supposed to be a plastic bushing in there that was bad on mine, this should be checked and replaced often.
Additionally, the firewall on these trucks is a little weak, this allows the firewall to flex when the clutch is pressed and eventually will crack. Well mine did anyway, when it let loose it allowed the clutch master cylinder to peel away from the firewall. So I made a large plate to spread out the force on the fire wall.
Long response but I am thinking this is you problem as I have seen it on other trucks of this age. Hope it helps and I also hope this encourages others to look at this critical connecting point and maintain it so they don't suffer the same problems as I.
Good Luck,
Jeff
>I got a 1984 F150, 300i-6,
>4-speed. I just put a
>new clutch in and had
>the flywheel resurfaced(-.020. Now it
>seems that the clutch is
>not disengaging enough to allow
I should have added that I ordered my Bendix slave cylinder from CarParts.com. I haven't checked recently, but I guess they still carry them.
Good Luck.
DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, T-18 but looking for a ZF. 3.55's.
Good news! Jeff, you hit it right on the head. I pulled the master cylinder and the firewall was cracked and flexed out when the clutch was depressed. I fabricated a plate that would fit and reinstalled the unit and it works like a charm. I also replaced the plastic bushing where the push rod connects to the cross over. Thanks guys for all the input, it really got me out of a jam as this was a " favor " for a friend and I was looking pretty stupid. I think I'll try to just keep my old truck running (79 F100, 460, C-6)but if I ever need help again, I'll know where to go. Thanks again, Dave
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.