I want to make some ladder bars in shop class and i was wondering if anyone had any dimensions of some that i could use to make some up. Thanks

 

It kind of depends on what kind of vehicle and what the intended usage is. If you're looking for something to get articulation out of, then longer is better, although you typically run into ground clearance issues. The reason for longer=better is that you probably have leaf springs in the rear...and leafs like to move straight up and down. A ladder bar pivots at the frame end, causing the axle end to move in a large arc. The longer the ladder bars, the larger the arc and therefore less overall 'length' change during suspension cycling. (It's A LOT like steering geometry...a pain to get to work correctly because you're dealing with angles and arcs and things that like to move in a straight line.)


Otherwise, there is very little engineering that needs to go into a ladder bar setup on a daily driven vehicle. Yeah, for racing, engineering is everything, but DD's are a lot more forgiving.

Why are you looking into this, anyway? It's all in the details of what you want out of this vehicle. In all actuality, you can make them as long, short, wide, chrome, thin, heavy, light, etc. as you want as long as the geometry is correct for what you want to do with them.

I built a set 21 inches long for my 73 2WD (pics in gallery) with airbags. The reason I went with this length was because I don't off-road it and it's a little lower than factory height. The MAIN reason they're 21 inches long is because I used the original front leaf spring mounts to mount the front of the ladder bars (easy and cheap). They work great..... I also built a setup for the leaf springs on my 95 1 ton with 18 inches of lift. The bars are 6 feet long!! The change in effective length matches the length change of the front half of the springs when they cycle.


Cody

 

I also built a set for my truck have about 6" of liift, and the bars are 48" long probably should have gone with 60" but it works fine. You can check my gallery to see them, but I will say they don't articulate much but my truck is straight line mud drag race only truck so thats not important to me.

 

What kinda tubing did you guys use for the material? I'm using sch 40 galv. pipe for my crossover steering, but I think I'd rather go with some 3/16 wall 1 1/4" or so for the ladder bars / 4-link.

 

mine is 1-3/4" square tube with .120 wall.

 

i have a 1973 highboy i use for mudding only so yes i will need them to articulate.

 

Pipe isn't meant to be used for steering situations where it will recieve massive tension/compression loads. I'd switch over to some thick wall dom tubing for your steering.

 

= mucho dinero. I'll try the pipe out and we'll see how things work. I'm not negating your suggestion, I'm just flat-**** broke...

 

DOM is expensive but you only need a short length for the drag link. My drag link is 2 feet long exactly. At $13 a foot (.25 thick wall, 1.5" OD) it cost $26. If your steering box is outside the frame you might need 2.5 feet. It's not that much money but when you don't have it you don't have it. Tell your wife to let go of your wallet Nick!

 

well, being a college guy i totally understand where you're coming from being broke.... however i do also understand that the steering system is one of the most vital systrems on any vehicle and should deserve the utmost attention. i would use the pipe only temporarily and i wouldn't drive it on the street. like Ivan said 3' of DOM should be the most you would need! and even at $20 a foot i would get it! just one mans opinion, i know but it is something to think about!

i dont think his wife has a hold on just his wallet....

-cutts-

 

You're evil! No, she has him set up pretty good. He gets a small allowance every week for gas and junk while she invests the money wisely. In a year or something from now he'll get to spend like a mad man! I just don't have the patience or control to save money. Apparently neither does Nick which is why his wife is doing it for him.

 

I hear ya for being broke, but the problem is that when that pipe breaks, (and if you need more info look up technical specs on sched 40, its quite hard, which also makes it quite brittle) you and your passangers may not get another chance to try something else. brakes and steering are two things that you should NEVER try things on, its simply too dangerous to do that. please please please,,,beg borrow or borrow with intent to some day pay for it some better material for your steering.

 

Since my son was born, I've been doing more 'holding' then she has. Won't let me within 10 feet of her unless it's to rub her feet...

Anyhoo, I took ya'lls advice and went and got a 6 foot piece of 1 1/4" .120 wall DOM tubing over lunch today. I figger 4' for the tie rod and 2' for the drag link oughta be perfect. I was surprised that it's only set me back $3.55 a foot, too. I'll be going back there shortly to get the rest of my materials for the rest of the suspension. I want to stick with the 1" inside diameter cuz I can make my own bushings for use with the 3/4" heim joints, but I'll brobably step up to the 1 1/2" .250 wall stuff. I figure that'll be tuff enuf for ladder bars and 4-link.
monsterbaby, what did you use to attach your ladder bars? Heims, bushings, booger welds and bubble gum?

 

naw I used bailing wire, and duct tape of coarse bubble gum is too expensive, and welding takes skill even booger welds<a href='http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb008_ZNxdm824BCUS' target='_blank'><img src='http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_1_42.gif' alt='Club' border=0></a>
actually, I used tractor top link ends with a 3/4 dia. hole, and a 1" threaded end.

 

dude, i was just messing around man.... i hope you didn't take offense to that! sorry!

now aren't you glad you checked on that stuff

-cutts-