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just saw an ad on the top of the webpage for rust bullet. has anyone tried it? how long does it last? i have tried many rust converters and all have failed me after 1 season of winter. i need to stop the rust from migrating on.
asphalt? it works for the undercarriage... but i'm talking about the body panels that are visible on the outside. if it works (as in it last for many years), i'll be spraying both the inside and outside with it.
I've used something called EXTEND to convert rust. Never on a vehicle, but I have used it on the underside of lawnmower decks which tend to rust out. I would have to say it performs at least medium for me. Do you have experience with this product? It is available (or was available) at industrial power products places like Motion Industries in liquid, brush on form. I most recently got it in a spray can from Home Depot I believe. I may be mistaken but I beleive to stop rust migration thru paint due to salt, you have to clean off all of the residual NaCl remnants from the paint and steel. It has to be ultra clean.
Last edited by Stavid; Apr 23, 2005 at 09:39 AM.
Reason: typo's
Rust Bullet has a website you should check out. I have not used Rust Bullet, but have had great success with POR 15. Por 15 requires a bit of preparation, but once on properly, rust is no longer a problem. POR 15 is a bit pricey, but it works and they have a lot of other products to complement the rust paint. The big issue I have with POR 15 is trying to paint over top of it. You need to use their primer etc. Take a look at their website also. I have used the body filler and the topcoat paint and both seem good.
I think you are refering to a product called "Ospho", it has phosphoric acid in it and will turn iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate, an inert compound. I used it on ships back in the 70s with exellent results. It always pays to wire brush or otherwise remove as much crusted rust as possible then brush on the ospho, and do it several times. (USE EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES!) Naval jelly also contains a small amount of phosphoric acid and if applied several times can do a creditable job. The problem is that if just one speck of rust remains unconverted it continues to devour your metal. I had a body man once tell me he made his own and that it was MUCH more effective. He used 1/3 phosphoric acid, 1/3 nitric acid and 1/3 water. He made up a gallon at a time. I don't know how easy it is to get acids nowdays but you can contact a local chemical supply house. BE VERY CAREFULL WHEN MIXING ACIDS AS THEY CAN REACT AND SPLASH BACK CAUSING BURNS!! It is always best to grind down and wirebrush or lightly sand balast to remove as much rust as possible before treating the metal. Treat several times over several days to get the best penitration and results. Wash down with water prior to painting. Try to find an industrial rust inhibiting primer for the first coat if possible.
nitric acid?! that stuff EPA is going after! i know this because last year, we were going to set-up a stainless steel passivation line at work. it required nitric acid as one of the ingredients. when i investigated further about safety precautions and disposal... it was extremely costly. this is because EPA is cracking down on plating companies on controlling their nitric acid use and disposal. yeee-how-zers... best to avoid nitric acid if you can... that stuff is bad not only for the environment, but also for humans. the fumes generated by nitric acid is bad for the human respiratory system.
Nitric acid is like any other dangerous chemical, if handeled properly it is safe, but you had better know what you are doing. If the EPA has their way we won't have any thing left to use but water! A few people abuse a substance, dump it in streams etc, and we all suffer! I know this formula works, but as I said before you must be careful!
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