I've been trying to decide what to undercoat my '67 mustang with after I get my floor pans in and I'm down to Por 15 vs. Rust Bullet. I have a few questions that I haven't been able to get answered by searching the forums, so here goes:

1) Is Rust Bullet as dangerous as Por 15 to breath fume wise? I had a grandpa die of lung cancer and don't care to be in his situation down the road.

2) Por 15 requires you to use thier own primer to paint over it with automotive paint, does Rust Bullet need it's own primer too?

3) I can find Por 15 at a local auto body supply shop, but they've never heard of Rust Bullet and didn't seem to excited about helping me out find it, I'm guessing they're pro Por 15. Can Rust Bullet be only bought on the internet?

 

There's also www.zero-rust.com , just to add to possibilities. Pretty easy to use. I'll have to get back to you in a few years to tell you how it lasts......

 

Yeah, I've considered it earlier but from what I can tell it is better for new surfaces or sand blasted surfaces, whereas something like Rust Bullet appears to be made to applied to semi-cleaned/dirty surfaces and it eat away most rusty stuff.

I've pretty much decided I wanna use Rust Bullet, but was unable to find answers to the above questions on their website or in any of the forums on this site.

???

 

I'd try sendin' them an email.....just a thought.

 

After reading the FAQ section on the RustBulet site, it appears that you do not need a primer in order to apply a topcoat. The FAQ page was somewhat informative.

Here's a link to the MSDS regarding health hazard data:
http://rustbullet.com/images/pdf/msds22805.pdf

I'd imagine that the only way you can get this stuff is online, phone order or possibly a car show.

Lastly, a quick FYI, cleaning and treating the rust before applying POR-15 is an added prevention. According to POR people I spoke with, it is not a necessary step. Even with RustBullet, I'd at least use OSPHO or some other rust converter product as a precaution step. I mention OSPHO because it is about the cheapest converter I've found and I buy it by the gallon at Home Depot.

Good luck and please let me know how the product works. I'd like to know how well it brushes on and how it lays after brushing. I've only used POR and it lays down nicely. BTW, I've found that sponge brushes work the best. I like the fact that RustBullet doesn't need a primer and isn't UV sensitive.

 

I'm not familiar with OSPHO, I take it must me some sort of acid that kills some of the rust?

 

yes, its a phospheric acid. What I like about it, is its very watery and gets into the little nooks & crannies that you can't get the paint into. Thats where a good part of the added protection comes into play.

 

Hmmm... interesting. Thank You for your help Carlene!

 

rust bullet is awesome . i buy it right from their website and it is here next day.

 

I used rustbullet and wasn't all that impressed.

After air needling, wire brushing, and sanding my rusty rear shackles, I applied this stuff. It goes on extremely well, but a few month later, rust spots started pushing thru. I had better luck when I pretreated the rusty areas with stuff like Rust Treatment by Permatex first, but it still pushed thru. I can't think of anything I'm doing wrong.

 

You want to kill rust; starve it of oxygen.

Por-15, you must use a respirator.

With Zero-Rust, it's not mandatory, but advisable. It's much safer than Por-15.

It's a coin toss.

I never heard of Rust Bullet.

I'll have to check it out.

 

I've got a 65' Mustang and I had rusty floorboards when I was replacing my interior. I used a product by SEM called Rust-Seal. They've also got a less expensive version called Rust-Mort, but Rust-Seal you don't have to paint over if you don't want to and Rust-Mort requires a topcoat. I sanded my floorboards (didn't spend much time) with a wire brush on a die grinder, blew the dust and residue out, and applied the Rust Seal. It took two applications but it worked perfect. It converted everything to a hard black looking coat. Then I sprayed some black spray can stuff over it, let it dry and Dynamatted the whole floor. Then I layed the carpet. We had to pull some of the carpet up recently and it looked spotless down there. I was impressed. The Rust Seal stinks, but all of them are chemicals and all are going to stink no matter what anyone says. Por-15 is good but its a pain in the but to use, Zero-Rust is okay but its only a rust inhibitive paint that encapsulates the rust, and ospho from what I've been told is good, but its an acid, and I don't know anything about it. The SEM stuff seemed to work good and it wasn't messy, just brush on. We sell POR, Zero Rust, Phosphoric Acid, and the Rust Seal. We sell the most of Rust Seal/Morts and POR. We sell the phosphoric to guys with light surface rust, and we sell the Zero Rust to guys painting rusty equipment or larger surface areas.

 

gt350h, hope you did the underside of those floor boards. That was a common problem for both first and second generation Mustangs.

Also another rust/rot problem was the cowl panel, just below the wiper arms.