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Anybody know how to build or where to buy a cheap obd I reader? I have seen obd II connectors and such that you can hook to your laptop or palm pilot which would be really nice and you can get all kinds of information besides the standard fault codes
If you just want to read the codes, that can be done with a simple jumper wire, even a paper clip will work, on EEC-IV (OBD-I) Fords. You just have to watch the CEL blink.
As for hooking up an EEC-IV vehicle to a computer, I have no clue, but I'm sure there are things ought there, you might try your question in the Computer and Tuning Forum.
As Rockledge said, on OBDI all you need is a paper clip. Get a Haynes manual for the truck and it will have very simple to follow instructions for doing this plus lots of other troubleshooting info.
As Rockledge said, on OBDI all you need is a paper clip. Get a Haynes manual for the truck and it will have very simple to follow instructions for doing this plus lots of other troubleshooting info.
Good luck,
Doc
There's also a stickey thread called 'technical information' in the ranger forum that has instructions to pull the codes....
Sure but for 30 bucks for a digital scanner, how can you go wrong? That's less than the cost of a tank of gas (ouch!) and eliminates having to count sweeps of the needle on a multimeter or other methods that contain a margin for error. For me, the less thinking I have to do, the better! If I hurt my brain just trying to figure out what the codes are, I just don't have enough left to figure out what to do with 'em after I've got 'em! (Ahh, such are the trials of old age and advanced CRS!) -TD
I guess I'm just too big of a cheap skate to spend $30 for something to replace something that is virtually free. I have no trouble counting the blinks of the light.
There are OBD 1 systems out there that don't send signals to the Check engine light. My 92 F150 does, and all I need is any metal wire for the circuit. Unfortunately, my 91 Probe needs an analog voltmeter in the circuit to read code flashes.
To eliminate the need to run around looking for a jumper wire, determine which two wires need to be shorted to start the test, then you can mount a simple toggle switch in a convenient spot, run the switch wires to the two test wires and tap into each wire. Cover the splice with electrical tape or buy the fancy inline splicers that just pinch thru the wire. Whenever you need to check the codes, just flip the toggle switch and turn the ignition on.
At that point you only need to read the CEL flashes, or worst case scenario, a 20 dollar analog voltmeter placed across the positive battery terminal and the self test output pin on the EEC test connector.
I do not like OBD 1 fancy 40 dollar code readers, for one reason...they cost forty dollars.
I did it today using a wire in the STI and it worked pretty good. Definately dont need to buy a reader. It took me a time or two to figure out when it was starting and ending each code and the different types of codes. If figured it out though. The only code i got anyways was the one telling me the AC wasnt working which i already knew since the compressor locked up last year.
I paid $180 for mine and I can read any and all to this point, OBD-I, OBD-II, and older systems. It came with four cables to look at Ford, GM, Mopor, and imports. If I am to spend any money on a tool I would like it to work in as many cars and trucks as I can, I never know what will be sitting in my driveway next. I am a Ford man but, six months ago I lost my Chev, Suburban in a wreck and now I have a Volvo for the wife to drive…..
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