oh that's great reasoning...arsenic is natural too, would you mind if a bunch was dumped in your water supply? or on your property?

oil does rinse off, be it slowly. you ever see the rainbow on top of the water? Water splashing on an oil sprayed surface will take oil off...if it didn't, you would only need to coat it once for life.

pry open your wallet and use an undercoating that doesn't wash into our environment, you'll keep your vehicle longer and the environment safer (to a degree).

 

of coarse most of those undercoatings are lethal to breath, and pollute the atmosphere but thats ok cause they don't have any oil in them. And if you don't like oil undercoating maybe you should protest telephone poles, and all dock pylons using creasote, I have hauled bridge planks coated with it, and it's listed as hazmat when hauled over water yet they use it for Docks and bridges now that makes a lot of sense, and BTW it's an OIL based product.

 

It seems a light coating might not be too bad. Most older cars have that already. Try flushing the underside of the truck with water to get rid of the salt. On the other hand oil under coating may only drip a little. I wouldn't mind getting just a little penny from everybody who drives a car in our great country.

 

In answer to your question <o></o>

Any one doing oil under coat; Yes<o></o>

Yes you can spray it in a few ways<o></o>

But painting it on with a brush is a good way<o></o>

Just cut open the side of a empty quart and use it to dip your brush, if you want it a little thicker add some grease some grease is water proof and it gives a nice sheen, the easiest way to apply the oil is give some kids some soda & candy – but be warned the kids might paint the pipes this smokes off soon enough.<o></o>

Do this two times a fall & spring; oiling is a lot of fun- and you will rest easy knowing the evil rust is not at work <o></o>

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Use Linseed oil. I think the Tractor Supply Store sells this as an undercoating/rust preventer. Lots of farmers use it to prevent rust on their farm equipment.

 

I just got done spraying 2.5 litres of dominion sure seal drippless undercoating on a 2007 Nissan Altima we recently picked up. This is my first time undercoating a vehicle with oil but it went well. The product sprayed on like a thin layer of vasaline and smelled like car soap.
Did i mention it didn't drip? NOt a single drip on my garage floor after the car was done. I pulled the tires off, inner fenders out, and drilled the doors for access. I dunno how long it took me but I wasn't rushing.

The oil spraying gun cost 25$, 5 gallon bucket of undercoating cost 80$

I plan on keeping this car in the family for a long time, and I see cars rusting apart all the time here in atlantic canada. I have taken close looks at vehicles that have been undercoated with oil and it makes a huge difference.

Reading through the 5 pages of this ancient thread was very interesting, this oiling process is very commmon in atlantic canada.

curtis

 

This topic is old and seen more than its fair share of "bumps". I have an extremely rusty 2001 F350 ... 56000 miles on it. In an attempt to get a few more years out of it before the salt eats it entirely, I sprayed underneath with some used ATF and motor oil.

I recently bought a rust free Jeep Cherokee. Again, to keep it from turning into a deathtrap rustbucket like my Ford Taurus, I'm spraying it with oil underneath.

If you use a paint gun, it shoots a fine spray. ATF doesn't drip, but motoroil will. The ATF tends to "creep" but the motoroil seems to work better for already rusty spots.

I've hit both vehicles twice since October with ATF / Motoroil. I put about 200 miles on the Jeep one day in the rain ... it was getting a lot of spray. The oil was still there and water was "beading" up where I sprayed. This is good - it sticks around.

If you go nuts with it, yeah it's going to drip. Done reasonably, is it going to drip less than most vehicles leak? Absolutely... if you don't go nuts.

I fully intend on doing this with every used vehicle I buy and I am going to make a point to buy rust free vehicles from out of this area.

I live in Central NY state; engines, transmissions, electronics don't determine the life of a vehicle - rust does.

 

Living in the central California Sacramento Valley, it's amazing to me what those who live in the Midwest, Northeast and other snow / rustbelt areas of the USA and Canada must go through.

Even when reading DIY magazine articles, when photos are involved, seeing the rust / surface rust on undercarriages - exhaust systems, ect. is almost obscene to me. Restoring a car with rust, as compared to starting out with the same car in "rough" condition, albeit from a desert / dry area of the USA is a night and day difference!

I give all the credit in the world to those who restore rusted cars and make them look like new.

My 2000 Ford Explorer Sport, (2 Door) 83,000 miles, purchased new here in Sacramento, Cakifornia; the undercarriage still looks new. You can still see factory paint marks, paint dabs, bar codes ect. on the undercaariage. In fact, stenciled in light yellow paint, is the Ford factory marking stating that the frame here is for the "2 Door Explorer Sport" model.

Hang in there, snowbelt owners, and keep you vechicles as clean as possible. I know, that's easier said than done, during a long, cold and snowy winter.

Lastly, with all of our technology of the modern day, we still can't come up with snow melting chemicals better than various formulas of road salt, the real culprit in rusting out ALL vehicles before their time, bridges, highway structures, ect. A shame.

 

If you live where any type of salt is used during winter, there is a very good product called fluid film. It's lanolin-wool wax, natural, non-toxic and sprays on easily. Apply it during fall and you won't have rust issues other than the exhaust which burns it off. I've used it for years and it's the about the only defense the metal on your truck has. Also apply it to our plows. Traditional undercoating can accelerate rust by trapping it between itself and the metal as it ages.
It's a bit of work to apply it yearly but the payoff is you won't have a rust bucket in a few years. Tony

 

Tony, Thanks for your excellent tip. I will pass it along to my Dad and brother, who live in northeast Ohio.

My Dad taught me the value of keeping a vechicle clean and well maintained. To this very day, my Dad (now retired) has a 1996 red, Dodge Ram SLT truck. The Ram is garaged when not in use and overnight, but it still looks like new. Driven in snow, rain, sleet, you name it - it's not babied, but simply taken care of.

An example, you'll NEVER, EVER see my Dad's truck dirty more than a week Road salt spray is promptly washed off, including the undercarriage. It helps

 

No problem, glad to help. Many people like myself don't have the ability to wash the truck weekly to remove the salt/corrosive products. I've got several trucks which are used heavily during winter. None have rust which have been coated with fluid film. You will be impressed beyond belief with this product. It's a crying shame what ID trans dept has done since implementing their salt program which is now 100% salt in liquid and solid form. It ruins vehicles, road surfaces, bridges, kills nearby vegetation & trees, etc. They should be sued and held fully accountable for this. It all comes down to money and the use of salt is the cheapest way to maintain a given stretch of roadway during winter.
Another tip is never to use crimp electrical connectors on anything other than the interior as the salt will find its way in, corrode the wires, and cause all kinds of problems, in particular with newer vehicles in which the pcm is monitoring resistance within an electrical circut. Found this out the hard way and many $$. Heck, the salt is so bad here it separates the brake pad from its backing plate on disk and drum brakes.
Spray fluid film in every cavity (doors, rockers,wheel wells, etc). Sorry about the salt rant, but as a fellow truck enthusiast, I simply hate it and it costs everyone major $$ in the end. Tony

 

For the lazy. Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

 

Here's the real issue using either petroleum or A/V (animal/vegitable) based oils on the underside of a vehicle. The cats heat to 450+ degrees....while it is less than likely to ignite in the winter time, I have seen especially when freshly applied where the oil has ignited, a flash type fire occurs and basically, wipes out anything electrical under the truck and kis your paint on the lower rockers goodbye

 

Good thought on fire. We take care not to apply the product to the exhaust system, same as if you were applying traditional undercoating. In S Cal you would not have to worry about salt, only sun damaging effects on paint and interior. You could not believe the problems salt causes vehicles up north. My blue truck is now white after about 30 miles of driving today.

Tony

 

Ahh, we do have problems like that too...the San Bernardino Mountains (where I lived for 10 years), avg snow is about 18 inches.....while ca outlawed salt (unless a disaster decloration is issued), they use another chemical (red) on asphault bits that makes salt look like candy incomparison to the effectes on a car (but it makes the plants happy)! vaseline on wheels and chrome became a great friend! washing the underside of the vehilce after each storm helped alot too!