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Engine block problems. HELP!!!

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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 05:58 PM
  #1  
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From: San Jose, CA
Engine block problems. HELP!!!

Finally found the stock engine for my '52 Panel. Got it unloaded (drove to L.A. and back in one day) and cleaned yesterday. Surprised to see some of the original paint still present. The engine has been rebuilt once (tag still in place) and bored out to .010". The engine looks ok, except for the broken bellhousing. I knew this from the beginning. Didn't think that it was going to be a problem as I should have a few bellhousings laying around.

However, when I took the bellhousing off, I found that two bolt mounting connections on the block are cracked.




Is this going to be a huge problem now? Did I waste my time and money on this? Do I need the upper bolt connection? I think that the lower bolt connection area could be drilled all the way through in order to use a longer bolt. Can these areas be repaired? Pros/cons??

I am in need of help, desperately, as the 215 OHV engines are very hard to find (because they get scrapped), and it took me some time to find this one.

What can/should I do?????

Thanks, Ilya
 
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 10:25 PM
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tiap
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From: South Florida
Welding cast iron is tough. It can be repaired. The proper way to do it is to dissassemble the engine and send it to a shop that will heat up the whole block and weld etc the breaks or cracks and then you can machine the block back to new shape. Since the block has been heated almost red hot, everything will have to be remachined to reassemble the engine( line bore etc. One place is in Chapin Illinois. Chapin Cylinderhead Co.
Perhaps you can find a really good welder that has experience with this that can do it without disassembly. There are lot of new fancy welding alloys out these days. I know one welder here, but this is florida.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I plan on rebuilding the entire engine anyways. I just want those breaks to be fixed.

Ilya
 
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 11:07 PM
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200000+F150
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From: Hendersonville, TN
Cast iron welding IS a funny business. It does have to be pre-heated, but heating the local area is usually good enough. Brazing brass onto the area is easier, and might work okay and then drill the one all the way through and use a nut. Maybe just don't use the other bolt. That would probably be okay. You might consult with some local, reputable welding shops, or cylinder head shops, but ones that weld cast iron are few and far between.
 
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