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Steering wheel pulses when braking

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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:51 PM
  #1  
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Steering wheel pulses when braking

I have a 2002 F-250 CC 4x4 PSD with just over 36K miles. I added a Pro Comp 4-inch lift kit, and BFG A/T tires (35 x 12.5) on Pro Comp simulated beadlock wheels (16.5 x 9.75 - strong mother scratchers). I also added a Pro Comp steering stabilizer.

More often than not, when I approach a stop and apply the brakes, the truck vibrates. Actually, vibration isn't the right word. It's more like a pulsing effect, where the steering wheel dances. Could my front end need realigning? Or would adding a second steering stabilizer help? Is it just that big tires need to be balanced more frequently than small tires?

I'd like to fix this before I start having brake problems, irregular tire wear, etc. By the way, when I apply the brakes firmly, the effect isn't as pronounced, and sometimes it doesn't display the behavior at all. Of course, before I added the big tires, there was no pulsing.

Thanks,
bspeake
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:21 PM
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I've had something like what you described on other trucks. It was caused by warped disc brake rotors. You can get them turned to straighten them out, assuming that it hasn't already been done. You can only take off so much material before you have to replace them. Might be worth a try. It's normally not terribly expensive.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:30 PM
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Second that. It sounds like warped discs. Just be glad you don't have a D*dge. A friend has three of them in his fleet of 2 dozen trucks - mostly Fords. The D*dges eat brakes - averaging only about 15,000 miles between front brake jobs - and they need new discs every other brake job. Ouch.

I can't say this is normal for D*dges, but his three are all about the same. And don't get him started on fuel mileage of the V10s...
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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Yep. I'd say you definately have warped brake rotors. I've had this happen on a lot of other vehicles. As long as the vibration isn't too bad, go ahead and get them turned. Auto Zone does this, but my might want to go to a place that specializes in brakes. If they get too bad, you'll have to replace the rotors. Rotors for a half ton truck are usually around $20 to $30 each. I hate to think what a rotor costs for a 3/4 ton or 1 ton diesel truck! Matt
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:58 PM
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KC10Chief is right - and where ever you take it, they will probably measure the disc thickness and tell you to get a new one if it is out of tolerance. And, if they don't they aren't doing their job.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:25 PM
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For preventative maintenance, be sure not to over tighten the lug nuts, with the big tires and lift it's tempting to do it to keep the wheels from falling off. Use a torque wrench and torque the lug nuts to what is suggested, either by Ford or the suspension company.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:46 PM
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Any recommended mileage to get the rotors turned? I also, feel a very slight pulse. Got 37k on my '03 PSD, no brake job yet.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve_250
Any recommended mileage to get the rotors turned? I also, feel a very slight pulse. Got 37k on my '03 PSD, no brake job yet.
No. Just have them turned when necessary.

One other thing that helps preserve disc integrity - DO use a torque wrench, as farmb0y said, but when you torque them down, do them in a cross-pattern sequence so you are tightening around the disc evenly. Works for cylinder head bolts, works for lug nuts.

On light weight cars it helps, but I believe on heavy pickups, it is necessary.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 09:36 PM
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With the size of tires you are running, it shouldn't be any surprise that your rotors are getting warped. Your stock brake system is having to do double duty to stop the extra rolling mass, which means extra heat.

Torquing to proper specs is necessary, but in the grand scheme of things, means diddly as far as rotor warping goes. Weather, driving style, brake pad quality, and tire size are all factors that affect rotor warping.

Sounds like better rotors (read slotted or drilled) and better brakes are in order.
 

Last edited by superrangerman2002; Mar 29, 2005 at 09:59 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 12:17 PM
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I appreciate all the input. Wish I had the cabbage to buy a set of Baer brakes.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by superrangerman2002
Torquing to proper specs is necessary, but in the grand scheme of things, means diddly as far as rotor warping goes. Weather, driving style, brake pad quality, and tire size are all factors that affect rotor warping.
Rotors can be warped by over tightening lug nuts, fellow I worked for has done it on his '02 psd. But you are also correct that the other stuff you stated also plays a major roll in how the rotors perform.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 07:38 AM
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Question

I have almost the same truck with a similar setup and I'm having the same problem. I was interested in watching this post to see what others would say. I'm certain it's not the rotors on mine, I can hit the brakes hard to get it to stop pulsing...and I don't feel the movement in the brake pedal. I was thinking when it started that a wheel isn't sitting flat on the hub, and when I tighten the lugs, it's crooked, or it could be a wheel bearing going bad....or in your case it could be a rotor, but if it's like mine.....it's probably not...
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 07:53 AM
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Usually you feel the pulsing most in the steering wheel. Also, when the rotors are not badly warped, you can press hard enough to stop the pulsing. If they warp badly enough, even hard braking will not stop the pulsing.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 06:08 AM
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Smile

It appears that I may have been correct, at least on mine. As I stated I had a similar problem, and was fairly certain that it wasn't the brakes. I had recently rotated my tires from the back to the front, on the same side, and that's when the problem appeared to begin, so I decided to switch the front tires to see what happens, and that seemed to fix it. I have 36" Interco TrXus tires, so they aren't uni-directional, so it should cause any problems to do this. If this hadn't solved my problem, I would have turned the rotors.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 11:01 AM
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Before blaming the rotors...

1) Check lug nut torque. Should be 160ft/lbs

2) Check caliper slide pin. Known to seize up and cause brake shudder. Sometimes has to be removed with a heat torch.
 
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