390 ?
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Laughing Gas
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390 ?
I got a 67 fairlane with a 390. Is there any numbers on the block to identify its year and so on.. If so where would I look.... I am not familiar at all with ford bigblocks so I will ask this stupid question , will the number also verify it is a 390????? Thanks
Elder User
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Nope. The only way to tell is by measuring the stroke with a wooden dowel or by tearing it apart. Your Fairlane should have a 390 though. Remove a sparkplug and rotate the engine through one full revolution. When the engine gets to TDC mark your dowel, then take it to bottom dead center and mark the dowel. Now measure your marks. 3.5 inches would be a 352 or 360, about 3 3/4 = 390 (or possibly a 406, 427) and as far as a 410 and/or a 428 goes I don't know if this method works on those motors. They have a stroke of 3.98, whereas the 390/406/427 has a stroke of 3.78 and the 352 and 360 have a stroke of 3.50 inches. Your Failane would more than likely have a 390 in it. Trace down your VIN and as long as the engine is original and have never been changed to a bigger or smaller one then that will tell you what you have.
JC
JC
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
In 1967 the Fairlanes only had 4 engine options. 289 4V code A, 390 2V, regular fuel code Y, 390 4V code Z and 390GT 4V code S. There might be the engine tag on the dist. hold down bolt. The GT engine had the staggered bolt high flow exhaust manifolds, the other 390's have the log vertical bolt exhaust manifolds.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Saybrook,Ill
Is the Fairlane a GT model or the 500? The GT model would have a 4 barrell with a large S on the intake manifold.The exhaust would have a staggered 14 bolt pattern. I have never looked under the hood of a 500 with a 390 but I think the reason for the staggered exhaust bolt pattern was so you could navigate around the shock towers. I have owned a GT for about 20 years now.
Needsmorecoffee.
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: CT
You can check the date code on the block to see if it fits the timeframe your car was built in. The date code is below the oil filter adapter mounting pad and is a number/letter/number(s) sequence. There is a small angled part on the block there where the date code is. It might be grimy and hard to read but it will be there. The block casting numbers might tell you but being generic with other blocks sometimes not much help. G.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by Annihilator
Nope. The only way to tell is by measuring the stroke with a wooden dowel or by tearing it apart. Your Fairlane should have a 390 though. Remove a sparkplug and rotate the engine through one full revolution. When the engine gets to TDC mark your dowel, then take it to bottom dead center and mark the dowel. Now measure your marks. 3.5 inches would be a 352 or 360, about 3 3/4 = 390 (or possibly a 406, 427) and as far as a 410 and/or a 428 goes I don't know if this method works on those motors. They have a stroke of 3.98, whereas the 390/406/427 has a stroke of 3.78 and the 352 and 360 have a stroke of 3.50 inches. Your Failane would more than likely have a 390 in it. Trace down your VIN and as long as the engine is original and have never been changed to a bigger or smaller one then that will tell you what you have.
JC
JC
John
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Laughing Gas
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Needsmorecoffee.
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From: CT
Date code for the block is 66/Oct/24th. The next time you have the valve covers off you can check the head date codes also to see of they are a close match. They use the same format as the block numbers. Head date codes are directly above the casting number under the valve cover area of the head. G.
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Laughing Gas
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My other question is that it does have a holley 4 bbl. The car is really rich, I pulled out the front drivers side plugs, By the way besides being black they were finger tight.. All the plugs are black and most likely junk now. My question is what is best way to go to deal with the richness. Should I rebuild it or try adjusting it. Who knows how long it has been not maintained. By the way I only know how to adjust the float any help on adjistments appreciated ...
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
First make sure the choke is coming off as the engine warms up. If it doesn't, then any other adjustments won't help. The floats should be set next, then adjust the idle mixture screws. Turn in until lightly seated, the back out 1 1/2 turns. Then set the idle speed screw on the throttle linkage.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Colorado
You might want to pull the intake off and check and see if the intake ports are clogged up with carbon buildup. My '67 352 intake was so plugged that a couple ports were plugged up totally with only the size of a pencil on one and another had the size of a 12gauge wire. It ran really rich 
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Laughing Gas
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Thanks ceetwarrior good advice..
I got the choke adjusted and moved to the float the front is ok at level of hole in bowl.. Now the back float is a different story I got fuel pouring out the bowl side hole pretty heavily. I cant seem to adjust it any more. Does this mean I should remove the rear bowl and adjust the float. Also could that be contributing to richness. The Idle jet screws are currently only 3/4 of a turn out ( thats the ones on either side of the metering block on front of bowl. )
I got the choke adjusted and moved to the float the front is ok at level of hole in bowl.. Now the back float is a different story I got fuel pouring out the bowl side hole pretty heavily. I cant seem to adjust it any more. Does this mean I should remove the rear bowl and adjust the float. Also could that be contributing to richness. The Idle jet screws are currently only 3/4 of a turn out ( thats the ones on either side of the metering block on front of bowl. )
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,328
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From: Colorado
What are the jet sizes, power valve size, metering block(s). What kind of holley is it? Does it have 1 or two metering blocks? I would remove the float and adjust it that way. Then compensate for the slant of the engine in the vehicle. I've never had good luck with adjusting Holley floats in the carb unless you can get some clear sight plugs, they work great. If you do find some, be sure and take them out (and install metals) after you're done because they are not meant to stay in the vehicle as they will yellow.
I would definitely check the intake ports, I was very surprised at how clogged mine were! Also, if the motor slowly accelerates when you're free revving it, then I bet it's clogged. I can't even believe mine even ran! I should have taken pictures.
I would definitely check the intake ports, I was very surprised at how clogged mine were! Also, if the motor slowly accelerates when you're free revving it, then I bet it's clogged. I can't even believe mine even ran! I should have taken pictures.
Last edited by ceetwarrior; Apr 1, 2005 at 10:47 AM.