2000 eddie bauer 5.4L. Changing front brake pads. Starting to hear a screeching noise from right front. I have a 92 ford explorer and have changed the pads and rotors in that vehilce. Is the process the same? -OR-

Are there any special tools i need ? Whats the process? Thanks

 

If you're just changing pads, it's no big deal. Probably the same as you've done in the past. Remove the caliper (my 2001 EB uses two star/torx bolts within the rubber boot/slider). Remove old pads, press pistons back into caliper with a C-clamp and one of the old pads so that you push both pistons back at once (otherwise, you push one in, and the other comes out).

Two new pads go in, mind the correct orientation--it should be obvious, and re-install the caliper. You might want to grease the sliders a little if it needs it.

Really, if you've done pads before it's going to be pretty simple.

Now rotors, that's another story altogether. ;^)

 

Star/torx socket do u know what size ?

 

I just did my front pads and rotors on my 01 Expedition, I used a T-45 but was real carefull on turning because that was the biggest i had and it seemed a bit small, but it worked.

 

I just changed my front pads and rotors on my '99 expy the pads are simple but I had to use a sledge hammer to get the rotors off.

 

I did some looking on this site and found that if you use two 1/2 bolts about 4 inches long and put them in the caliper holes with a nut and tighten the bolts so they push on the back of the rotors and then hit the rotors they will pop off. Well it worked and i spent about 5 minutes/side to get the rotors off. It took tightening then rotateing the rotors and repeating the process until it popped. It was a nice trick and this site is full of great tips.

 

T-45 is the correct size...its a little loose, but the next size up wont fit in there. If you do rotors, definitely use the above trick or you could beating on the rotors and spraying them with Rust eater all day long....

 

Just did mine on the front--T45 was correct - the last two posters are spot on---get the rotors off even if they are in good shape. Then sand blast the back side where it mounts up to hub and gind corrosion off the edge of the hub---then coat with neverseize on the back lightly to prevent further corrosion. This is important to get the rotors to mount up flush to the hub. Even if it's frozen on, the bolt trick should work--also mark the rotor orientation to the hub---can't hurt.

If you haven't done rears---need to do that too even if you don't need pads---you will almost certainly find the parking brake mechanism is a mess---mine on 200 with 60K was froze up at the mechanical adjusters. The longer you put this off the worse off it will be---the danger here is even if you don't use the parking brake--at some point someone may engage it and they won't release--and you may not be in the driveway when that happens. The rear parking brake on these vehicles rusts badly in any kind of corrosive environment---a friend had his seized at 30K

One last thing--when you push those front double pistons back--some say to open the bleeder to do that or the contaminated fluid can get pushed back into ABS system. I did that and worked fine--the fluid did not seem that badly contaminated but others report it looked bad for them---then I went to the bother of bleeding all four brakes--the brakes have never been so solid - even when new

Good luck---lots of great tips on this site.

 

Started to look at changing all of the brake pads on my 99 Expy, I pulled the right front wheel off, and managed to get the two T45 bolts out.

But the problem is how and the heck do I get the caliper to move?

A Hammer?

I looked at the back end, and they look exactly like the E-150 van I used to own, so that's not a problem.

Thanks,

 

hammer and pry away. It will loosen up.

 

Be careful here. The caliper which is the pistons and the pads "pivots" out of the bracket. Which way it pivots - well you have to look. The pad backing plate has a lip on one edge and not the other. The end without the lip is the side that pivots up first---once that pivots up the other end comes out. You can pry forever on the wrong end and not get it to budge. If you look carefully it will be obvious which end pivots out first---then use a small pry bar or large screwdriver and it will lift out. Good Luck

 

Thanks for the advice, guess I'll get my head back under the truck tomorrow and take a peek.

BTW: This group has already saved me a ton, I searched for an P0904 error, EGR Excessive Leakage, replaced the EGR Position Sensor and it cured the problem. Local Dealer wanted $225 to replace the EGR valve.

 

Good point trucker22, i should of explained alittle better, then to just hammer and pry. Also just a small note, when pressing the pistons, make sure you on screw brake fluid resevior cap.

 

Yes good point on the res cap. Another detail--others have noted that it's a good idea to loosen the bleeder when you push back the pistons--if you don't the contaminated fluid you push back into the system can cause ABS probs. I did that--the fluid that squirted out the bleeder didn't seem too bad in my case. But I wanted to loosen the bleeders far enough to put never seize on the threads anyway. I did all four brakes this way. When I was done I bled the whole system as per serv manual instructions. Glad I did---my pedal is higher and more firm than it was from the factory 4yrs ago and the fluid in the systm is new and clean. Call me ****---but I think it's a good idea to get new fluid in after 4yrs anyway and the bleeders aren't going to seize down the road for whatever is coming!