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I got a new cloyes true roller (double roller) timing set for my 79 f 150. The 400 was rebuilt last year and it has a 268 comp cams cam in it. It shows how the marks should line up and it lists them at 4 retarded, factory and 4 advanced. Well from the factory it was 4 retarded but i should still set it up as "factory" to get it to straight up correct? Also am i going to have to grind the block to get clearance? and if so i plan on just getting a cheap die grinder from harbor freight because i dont wont use it much. Is this a good way to do it? I got new gaskets from summit when i ordered the chain set is there anything else i need? The "instructions" from cloyes dont say much so i plan on just following my haynes manual. They should be correct except i need to follow the directions to line it up from cloyes correct? I aint going to install it right away i am going to wait for it to warm up a bit. Thanks for the help guys.
Many factory cams were retarded 4 degrees for emission purposes. You want to install the new cam straight up. You shouldn't have to do any grinding. I just did this on a 351M and the double roller chain set went right in there with no clearance issues. Engine now has 2500 miles on it; running great.
No grinding is good news. They say that in some applications it is required. I also found it odd that that call it factory. They list the keyways as retarded (marked by Y timing mark and a square shaped keyway), factory specified timing (marked by a thing resembling a 0 timing mark and rounded shaped keyway), and advanced (marked by dot timing mark and pointed shaped keyway) in the instructions. Well that is all they say in the instructions is how to line it up and that to watch for interference with the block because it may need to be ground. I was thinking to go advanced 4 to make it go from retarded 4 to 0 but i read somewhere around here that u line it straight up and that the factory timing set has the 4 degree retard built in some how.
I have heard of degreeing your cam. What will i gain by doing this and how much of an investment will i have to put into it and how hard is it? I suppose i will need a degree wheel is that it?
Just and FYI- I just recently replaced my timing chain on my 400 and I attempted to do this with the Cloyes set that you have. I spent several hours, and though it seemed as everything was lined up, it never fit. I eventually got fed up with it and ordered the Edelbrock double roller. It took about 1 minute to install the Edelbrock, so I took back the Cloyes cause it was worthless. The Edelbrock is very strong as well. The reason I replaced it is because my thrust plate broke and the two bolts holding it in walked out and went through the chain and gear. Lost some teeth, but the chain held up. The bolts were completely thrashed.
dial indicater is one way but thay make a low tech steel piece that screws in the spark plug hole then with the wheel in place you rotate the engine slowly one way till it stops and record the reading rotate it the other way till it stops and record the reading then split the difference to find true top dead center.
any decent degreeing wheel schould have instructions for the rest of the setup
the power gains and efficency gains (fuel milage) from a correct setup can be remarkable
my fathers 78 ranchero with a 400 was a dog through 3 engines we advanced 6 degrees on the 4th. one along with a couple of other very minor changes (its the little things no one wants to do that can make all the diffrence) and for "stock" it ran a lot better and still passed ca smog regs.
by the way the car saw well over 700,000 miles total.