Our 1993 460 is very hard to start, but only when cold. It starts and runs fine when it's warmed up. But it takes numerous "cranks" to get it started when the engine is cold. Once it finally starts I get black smoke/crud out the tailpipe, a very rough idle, and a "Check Engine" light. But after about eight minutes or so (to warm the engine?) the black smoke/crud stops, the idle smooths out, and the "Check Engine" light goes off. Then I have no more problems at all until I again have to start the rig cold.

I had the local Ford garage check for codes, but they came up with a "111", "System Pass".

Any theories out there?

 

I am guessing that it is EFI? Could be a leaking injector that is leaking into the cylinder and flooding the engine after sitting for awhile.

 

Yes, this is a fuel injected engine.

But we use the vehicle on a frequent basis, so it never sits unused for any length of time. I experience this problem every morning when I try to start the engine.

 

Overnight is long enough for an injector to bleed down into a cylinder. You will probably have to scan it while the light is actually on to catch the code. It could be a ECM problem since it is only doing it in open loop. Have you tried unhooking the battery for about 1/2hr to reset everything to see if the problem goes away?
Also, pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator while it is running and make sure no fuel is leaking thru the diaphram.

 

1. I maintain my motorhome meticulously. Here's a LONG list of maintenance items that have been replaced/work done that you'd think would at least partially resolve my cold-start problem. But it STILL runs like crap after a cold-start, and the "Check Engine" light STILL comes on. (NO CODES were read at the Ford dealership. Just "1-1-1", meaning all systems OK.) And it STILL runs great after the engine has warmed up about 8-10 minutes or so.

Here's the long list of maintenance work that has been done:

Brand New/Less Than 50 Miles Ago:

spark plugs
spark plug wires
dist cap/rotor
PCV valve
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
radiator fan relay
idle air control valve
oxygen sensor
EGR valve position sensor
temperature sender
coolant temperature sensor
air charge temperature sensor

Brand New/Replaced Less Than 1,000 Miles Ago:

fuel filter
air filter
breather filter
oil/oil filter

Brand New/Replaced About 10,000 Miles Ago:

thermostat
coolant
starter battery
radiator cap
fuel pressure regulator
EGR valve

Replaced By Ford About 10,000 Miles Ago Under Recall:

remanufactured PCM
idle air control valve
catalytic convertor

2. In short, I give up! I surrender! I have an appointment next Wednesday at the local Ford dealership. Actually my SECOND appointment, because the problem was not fixed the first time.

3. Thank you all for trying to help me, but my frustration level is maxed out. I'm burned out. My next vehicle will be a Dodge. We have three vehicles. Two are Fords and they are both basically crap, nothing but one problem after another. One is a Dodge, the engine has never given me a single problem, and it's still going strong at over 202,000 miles!

 

I wonder if the PCM just needs reflashed? Maybe a glitch in the original program. Hopefully it will be an easy fix. I'd sure hate to see you in another Dodge

 

UPDATE:

The verdict came in today, and it was a bad PCM. After a new PCM was installed it started immediately and ran like a top, just like it used to!

Thank you all for ALL your help on this!!!

 

Glad you're still in a Ford. I figured it must be a PCM problem. Happy motoring!!

 

Sorry for the dumb question. What is the PCM?

 

It's the Powertrain Control Module, basically runs everything in the engine and tranny, as well as computing vehicle speed for the speedometer, and performing diagnostic checks on everything.