Has anybody used Prolong or Duralube and what was the experience??

 

They both are chlorinated napthalenes. They both are corrosive. They both have been hammered by Uncle Sam for fraudulent claims. They both aren't worth buying to throw away unused.

 

Flash, I couldnt have said it better myself.

 

Yes I have used both once in a Chevy 305. Didn't experience anything different...at 150,000 miles it started to smoke really bad out of the exhaust so i suspected that the cylinders were pretty much tapered and out-of -round and that the valve guides were worn by then. I didn't bother to tear apart the engine to verify it...just an educated guess from rebuilding many small block Chevys V-8s in the past and the fact that most american car manufacturers were or are using a pure cast iron (without an alloy to resist wear) to cast their their engine blocks. I never did try running it with the oil drain out of it to see how far it could go without any oil (like in the TV commerical)...but did have a friend came over to visit me one day and she had leaked at least 4 quarts of oil out of her Chevy 3.4L V-6 on the way here (it was leaking out of the oil pressure gauge sending unit) and didn't suffer any damage to engine...and that with Mobil1 oil in it. And she got over 150,000 miles on her car and it still doesn't use oil and have good oil pressure.

 

Gee! I started using Duralube after I saw the first info on TV (1989). I have used it in all my vehichles every 40K to 50k. Never had an internal oil related problem on any. My '79 Caddy had 185k when I got rid of it. My wifes ex-78 Merc is still running around Portland. My 92 T-Bird now has 198k, My '86 Turbo Coup T-Bird stopped leaking around valve seals as soon as I added it.

 

Once apon a time I also tried Slick 50 too....

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/09/prolong.htm
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...;f=11;t=000113
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/07/slick.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.htm

I wish I still had that picture of an engine pan that had a steady diet of prolong.

You could have pushed a hole in the pan with your index finger.

 

I use "Justice Brothers" oil treatment. It does not treat the oil, it is a metal conditioner. It is a company based in California. It is on the internet. I think it is much better than Prolong or duralube. Does anybody else use it?

 

If you want to add something, Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment is very good or add 1/2 quart Redline Motor Oil.

 

Zmax is also still at it. They were running an infomercial on one of the cable channels. The claims and "testamonials" were unbelievable, including a statement that it is used in aviation, a lie. The FTC has not shut them down yet.

As for Justice Brothers products, I cannot find an MSDS, but the product descripton leads me to believe that it is full of VI improver, like the original STP of old. If you are ever in Duarte, CA, be sure and visit the company. The lobby is a car racing museum and well worth a side trip to see it.

Jim

 

"They both are chlorinated napthalenes. They both are corrosive. They both have been hammered by Uncle Sam for fraudulent claims. They both aren't worth buying to throw away unused."

What are 'Chlorinated Naphthalenes', and how do they effect the workings of the engine?

 

loneleader, sorry, I should know better than to try to do three things at once and got the wrong terminology in the post. It should read chlorinated parrafins. Chlorinated parrafins are part of the Prolong patent. Per their patent it contains:

Iron 7
Chromium 7
Copper 2
Lead 33
Aluminum 9
Silicon 4
Tin 13
Sodium 10
Magnesium 11
Siver 1
Nickel 5
Zinc 11
Calcium 1000+

It also states that it is:

51.5%chlorinated parrafins
31% aromamtic solvents
15.5% mineral oil
1% mineral spirits
1%calcium sulphonate

Chlorinated parrafins are certain solid hydrocarbons treated with chlorine gas to form straight chain hydrocarbons with a relatively high chlorine content. This material is generally use as an extreme pressure additive. In your engine, mixed with the combustion residues, makes great acid. If you know anything about motor oil add packs, you will recognize that the only relevant items in this brew is the calcium to help neutralize some of the acids and the chlorinated parrafins which creates the problem in the first place. But, don't trust me. Look to the legal problems they have had with the Feds. If that doesn't convince you that it is not worth putting in your engine, buy all you can cause it ain't gonna be around very long before the Feds hammer them again.

 

Flash, thanks for the lesson in chemistry. You make sense.