Alright, I know that at least ONE person here at FTE is a roofer, so I was wondering if I could get a professional point of view on this.

At the end of the month, I'm replacing the roof on my house. I'm good with ripping off the old shingles, the felt paper, laying new shingles, pipevents, and all that stuff. That I've done before. However, this is the first house I've worked on that has a wood sided chimney to flash around. It has the regular horizontal slat-type siding, and right now is flashed with copious amounts of roofing tar, which I refuse to re-do. The chimney is right in the front of the house, and that just looks ugly. I really wanted to flash it with copper, but can't think of a way to seal the flashing to the chimney. On brick chimney's you can just mortar it in, but I have no idea how to go about this one...

So, if there are any roofers out there that wouldn't mind giving a hand, chime in! Myself (and my sanity) appreciate it!

 

The only proper way to do it, is to remove the wood siding and flash underneath it. Start from the lowest point on roof, work around the sides and finish at top. Keep in mind the bottom piece will go over the shingles, the sides will be woven with shingles and top will be under shingles. Also, Top flashing will overlap the sides, which will overlap the bottom.
I was going to tell you to make sure you use ice guard under the starter row and in any valleys, but I see your in georgia. I don't know if it's manditory in your area, but I would anyways.
Good Luck,
Dave

 

I would carefully remove the wood siding,then install my flashing,then trim the siding so it is about an inch or two up from the shingles,then reinstall the siding sealing the underside of it with mastic or silicone so wasps could not get up in between the flashing and siding.

On edit,looks like lilduke and I said the same thing at the same time!Oh well,great minds think alike!

 

Hmmm... never thought about flashing it lke a mansonry chimney, just "tucking" it between slats... That actually may very well work.

 

If the siding is clap board, and siding above the roof cement is worth saving, remove enough to get past the roof cement, install your flashing as you would a sided wall, ( lil duke explained it very well if you can visualize it) then install new siding where the damaged siding was removed, you can use aluminum or copper, but with this application the actual flashing will not be visible except at the bottom.

 

Yes, yes they do!
Good luck on your move and I hope you can find a way to get digger down to tx.

 

have to agree with lilduke, and to seal it off yo can put some tar behind the flashing so it will not be visible then seal off the edges with some clear silicone. it should work just fine. and by the way if there is a way in water will find it so if you see a dark waterspot on your ceiling then it is probally leaking so get back up there asap and fix it or as i have done put more silicone on it. hope this helps. i have been out of the business for quite a while so i think you will get your best answer if you ask the people where you get your products at.

 

Many times you can slide the flashing behind the siding by using a cat's claw to remove all the nails from the bottom two rows, pull the bottom row out slightly and slide the flashing in. The aluminum is pretty flexible.

 

If you take really good measurements to a sheetmetal outfit, (like a heating and AC place), they can make a custom flashing for your chimney. You can ask them to use heavy gauge galvanized steel, so it'll last as long as you do. The home box store metal is kind of thin and I'm not set up to do the bends with the heavy stuff. Especially the saddle at the top of the chimmey or the base at the bottom. The sheetmetal guys are great at doing this to look good. They need chimney dimensions, how many courses of shingles and slope of roof. The slope part is important to actually measure at the chimney. I've built my own, but I rarely have time to do it when I'm laying shingles and it's so quick to just install something pre-made.

If your chimney is taller than you reach, you can take your recip saw and cut the corner boards a few feet up from the roof. The trick is to cut each side of the corner at different elevations and at an angle, (like butt jointing interior trim.) This will help hide the joint when you're done and saves time. I usually use about a half dozen or more tubes of Vulcum caulk and lay it on thick. Try to get your flashing up under the sheathing, Tyvek or tar paper. Do this right and you won't have to glob on the roofing tar bandaid later, like the last owner did.