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Rust Prevention Idea

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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 07:12 PM
  #1  
93nighthawk's Avatar
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Rust Prevention Idea

While looking at the Aero's on E-bay, I noticed that they tend to rust in the same spots (the rocker pannels.) Would drilling some drain holes in the underside help prevent this from happening?

Just a thought.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 10:49 PM
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I thought the same thing. However, I don't thing the problem is free water inside the panels. I just thing the metal, rustproofing, etc. were poorly done by Ford (have vague recollections of others saying the same thing).

The best method is to stay ahead of it. I didn't and my rocker panels are disintegrating. Would love some plastic/fiberglass replacements. Also, if you rustproof or rust repair, be sure to treat the inside.

Personally, I think there's an element of futility to this fight. I just don't think the engineering of the vehical was that good in that section. It appears to be the one consistent blight (I have an 89) on an otherwise good vehical (oh, and the power windows suck (I replaced mine with manuals after the third motor).
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 10:55 PM
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Wow, I thought that this thread was dead with the number of responses I got. I was just tossing out an idea, you never know what might work to prevent metal turning back to it's original state.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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mpeoples - my thoughts exactly. been trying to find fiberglass replacement panels instead of going with steel ones. also about the power window motors... there's a fault with the design. it is not sealed very well and water will get into the motor over time, corroding it. next time make sure to apply some caulking over the seams and ends of the motor to help seal it better. i'm gonna be replacing mine this spring.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 12:15 AM
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They have drain plugs under them anyways. Just know body ever removes them and cleans it out.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 11:29 AM
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Hi Muffinman,
Where are they?
Thank you,
Fordboy49
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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Under the rocker panels back side you will see rubber oval inserts. Remove them and wash it out then drive it around to make sure its dry. I sprayed rust stopper up in there. I can't get to all of it but some is better then nothing.

P.S. They are also under the front doors, Sliding door, and rear hatch.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 12:12 PM
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don't really think it has anything to do with Ford's design.....both of my Aeros (a 90 Eddie Bauer - which I purchased new here in Houston and my 91 XLT - which was purchased new by a neighbor) have never left the balmy temps of Texas. They show absolutely no signs of rust. I bet this is mostly a "northern" problem with the winter driving conditions.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 04:00 PM
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So the best way to solve the rust problem is to move to Texas (or Alabama).
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 04:06 PM
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You beat, bring all your guns too
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 11:18 PM
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on my 91 ext aerostar, the rocker panels were crushed upward, and majorly rusted when i got it used. i think it was placed on a lift incorrectly and damaged the bottoms, that i think lead to the rust. nothing could drain out of the drain holes anymore.
i replaced them with steel ones from jc whitney who had then at that time. i only replaced the lower third of the panel or lower half. pop-riveted them on and hid the seam with bondo and a black and chrome body side molding strip down the side. it looked good for a yr or so. then they were crushed upward again at a tire place, again misplacement of the lift arm on the hydralic lift. no one seems to see the proper lift spot at a glance. i thought of painting a yellow spot on the correct area...gotta watch those guys at the garage or tire place. they are always in a hurry. i didn't catch the damage on mine till weeks later...
i did also paint the inside of those repair panels, thats a good idea!. i now need to replace under the sliding door, but haven't seen any pieces for it...thats another summer project!! rick

91 aerostar ext, xl 4.0 litre, aka " the green bean"
rebuilt tranny 135 thou miles, original engine....214,500 miles and going..............
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 11:30 PM
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I had the same problem with those tire jocks. I had it happen to me on my first one. I was watching threw the window and yelled at the guy "Hey retard your bending my rocker panels and the seams are spliting" Use the damn frame!

The manager came running out and got me under control. I told him you guys are fixing this and I want it in writing. I got free set of Goodyears and got it fixed.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 11:58 PM
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Good for you M I seriously think sometimes they don't even think kind of like the people at the Home Depot they can run the register and nothing else well all they do is replace tires and nothing else and they still can't get it right .

I have had those yahoos with the impact guns annoy me after they replaced my tires I had to do a brake job (Pads) or so I thought they torqued my lugs irregularly the worst one was torqued to 180lbs they should be torqued to 100 ft lbs according to alldata which I torque them to I know what it feels like when the lugs are torqued properly.

So I had to run into my house to get my torque wrench rather then my breaker bar so I could see how much they screwed up and found the proper 1/2" drive socket to get them loose.

A little annoyance that could have been avoided if those people had done their job properly or at least torqued them evenly oddly enough my rotors were out of round and needed to be replaced I wonder why .

I go to Sams Club or Costco now since they actually use a torque wrench to secure the lugs rather then an impact gun.
 

Last edited by krankshaft; Mar 21, 2005 at 12:05 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 12:18 AM
  #14  
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I hear you, I had to change a flat and someone used a impact without a torque adaptor which they make a whole set for impacts.

I had to find a cheater bar, Which ended up being a old fence post to get them lose! I thought I was going to break the stud off. It had to be 180lbs plus. Talk about warped rotor I didn't even need a runout dial gauge to see it.
 
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