Floorboard reconstruction
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Floorboard reconstruction
I've read the forums on floor repair; I'm undecided on whether the welds will be butt or lapped joints.
I am considering leaving a 1" lip around inner edge and around transmission opening of cab to suppport the repair panel, I am using 14 ga for added strength
and thinking of placing it on top of the "lip" left for strength. Will the overlapp cause future rust issues?
What means of clamping the repair panel to cab is recommended, I currently only have 6" C clamps
Tom
I am considering leaving a 1" lip around inner edge and around transmission opening of cab to suppport the repair panel, I am using 14 ga for added strength
and thinking of placing it on top of the "lip" left for strength. Will the overlapp cause future rust issues?
What means of clamping the repair panel to cab is recommended, I currently only have 6" C clamps
Tom
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,734
Likes: 2
From: Kansas City area
tip49-
I recently repaired the bottoms of my doors and a buddy convinced me to use panel achesive for the outer skin. I am pretty impressed with this stuff. You may want to check into it for your floor panel repair, especially if you plan to overlap the joints. They make different adhesives for different applications so you need to check with a reputable auto paint supply store to see what is recommended . I used the Duramix brand made by 3M so they probably have info on a website. It also acts as a sealer in the joint to keep corrosion out. It is not cheap but saves you a lot of time not having to grind welds or worry about heat distortion. You will need to purchase the applicator tool which is a dual piston caulking gun type apparatus. Both the tool and adhesive will probably run you +/- $100. If you have a buddy repairing similar items you could share the cost of the tool. Good luck. 56FUN
I recently repaired the bottoms of my doors and a buddy convinced me to use panel achesive for the outer skin. I am pretty impressed with this stuff. You may want to check into it for your floor panel repair, especially if you plan to overlap the joints. They make different adhesives for different applications so you need to check with a reputable auto paint supply store to see what is recommended . I used the Duramix brand made by 3M so they probably have info on a website. It also acts as a sealer in the joint to keep corrosion out. It is not cheap but saves you a lot of time not having to grind welds or worry about heat distortion. You will need to purchase the applicator tool which is a dual piston caulking gun type apparatus. Both the tool and adhesive will probably run you +/- $100. If you have a buddy repairing similar items you could share the cost of the tool. Good luck. 56FUN
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 954
Likes: 2
From: 15 miles west of Venus
I just put a floor in the back of my '78 SC. I layed he new over the old and cut both with the plasma torch. That left a almost zero fit seam to MIG up. Welding went relatively quick with minimal hole chasing and warp.
I worried about rust forming in the lap area.
I worried about rust forming in the lap area.
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