Hey Guys sure do need some help .PURCHASED 1984 FORD ECONOLINE FROM HEAT&AIR COMPANY FOR 600.00 .RUNS GOOD SHIFTS GOOD A/C WORKED TIRES GOOD.When I got van home I checked it all out all was good except I had no night time parking lights. And the headlamps ,dome light,dash lights all flickered when turned on van running or not.I searched the electrical system for something grounding out. I found a tiny piece of household electrical wiring stuck inside the left rear marker light and removed it.Bingo found my problem all lights work now ,no more flickering .Ever since then the next morning I got in van. now it is dead no power in battery.Ok I tested battery w/meter 1.9 volts It's dead alright.I jumped started van. started up I then checked alternator and it was charging good almost 14 volts.Next morning dead again 1.0 volts.Jumped again I let it charge up and then disconnected neg battery terminal for the night This morning my battery has held 12.33 volts something is draning battery since I removed piece of wire from marker light.Cant see what is wrong.The van when off has nothing be powered when off not even a clock. any comments would be very helpful. sorry so long.THks
RJLB@webtv.net

 

You have an electrical current drain somewhere. A starting point is to find the fuse boxes', have your voltmeter/ammeter handy, make sure everything is turned off and start checking for current flow through each circuit/fuse. Remember to close the door/hood if there are any lights on etc. when checking that particular circuit. Hopefully you'll find a drain on one of the circuits. If so, you'll have a good starting point to look for the culprit.

Chris
'88 F350 XLT Lariat CC DRW/7.5l/C6/4.10
'93 Mustang LX 5.0l/T-5/3.55's/Flo's/K&N/Synthetics
Nissan p/u (DC commuter)
Volvo 940

 

Disconnect the battery neagtive. Set your meter to amps. Hook black test lead to battery negative wire. Hook red test lead to battery negative post. Should be very very close to 0 current flow, and if your battery is draining over night there probably is a few amps being drawn.
Start pulling fuses til current flow drops. The one that stops the current flow is the one that is draining the battery.
You will then know at least which circuit is the one to fix.
Good luck.

Sparky

 

I agree with Sparky. If you don't have an amp meter, you can use a 12v test light. Connect it the same way he describes. The light should glow very dimly if at all. Pull fuses one at a time until it goes out.

Once you have located the ciruit that is the culprit, you can substitue the test light for the fuse (you will need a couple test wires). Then you can wiggle, tug probe, etc on the wires in that circuit, and watch for a change in the test light to get you to the hot spot.

Good Luck.
Winford

 

Hey thks for the help I tried testing all fuses one at a time none are hot when van is off.I also did the amp test sparky reading 2.66 amps remove all fuses still says 2.66 amps ?Any other suggestions.Help
rjlb......

 

2.66 Amps @ 12 volts seems high. More drain than lightbulbs etc would cause.

Have you checked to see if there are any "extra" power using devices in the vehicle like power amps, compressors, trailer connections, that may be connected/shorted "outside" the fuze box? Something hotwired?

Have you checked the alternator itself? Did you pull the plug on it and check current drain? May provide a clue. I'm taking a guess here, but even though it is capable of providing a charge to the battery, maybe it is causing the drain while stationary? According to the Haynes manual for 84-86 F-series, there is a choke htr connection (wht-blk wire)? What is a htr, a heater? Could be a candidate for a high current draw.

I know Mustangs had a recall for ignition switches shorting out and catching fire, but that was way after '84 model year.

Electrical gremlins can be tough sometimes.

Chris
'88 F350 XLT Lariat CC DRW/7.5l/C6/4.10
'93 Mustang LX 5.0l/T-5/3.55's/Flo's/K&N/Synthetics
Nissan p/u (DC commuter)
Volvo 940

 

I think with all your input I will find ths bad boy today. I think it may be the alt ,Possibly the cables neg cable is rotten a little.I will let you all know when I get it fixed .
Thks -RJLB.............

 

If your diode burns out or is wired backwards on the altenator, the alt will typically draw current when shut down. Check with the light bulb across negative terminal. But, when you pull the negative battery terminal, connect your test light in series, then short the battery cable to the battery terminal a couple of times to make sure everything is shut down; then see if the light remains on or if there is a current draw. If there still is, then unplug the wire or wires on the back of your alt and see if the light goes out.

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

OK I removed wires from alt one at a time ,Removed neg black wire no change in amps 3.66 volts put wire bac on.Removed red wire and amps 0 out on my meter. then when I made sure meter was making good contact it shot up to 14.5 amps? I disconnected right away sparking off terminal.Connected all back together there is 0 amps being drained now but now my alt is only chargig at 12.30 volts ?Could it be a bad alt there aint no draw now? or did I fry it.Igot my meter on volts with termnals on battery and it seems to be holding a steady voltage .Before this you could actually watch the volts lower slowly.Any input again I"m all ears. ??????????

 

You didn't happen to accidently touch a ground with the red wire when you were checking the ammeter connection? That would cause a huge current draw and sparks when you disconnected.
If all you can get is 12.3 volts I would say the alternator, or regulator is dead. 12.3 sounds like battery voltage which means the alt is putting out zippo.
Most Parts Stores will check alternators and regulators for free so they don't sell you an unneccessary part. Maybe worth the trip to find out for sure. Sounds like you had a bad alternator though.
Good Luck.

Sparky

 

Hey guys I fixed the battery drain problem it was alt and voltage regulator. I found worn brushes in alternator almost down to nothing I rebuilt alternator.Auto zone $6.99 still had no draw but no charging then replaced voltage regulator $9.50 at auto zone and all is chaging and no battery drain is there.Thanks for all your help.My next question is A/C system this van is a 1984 ford econoline I don"t know if it is r-12 or R-134 upgrade .My guess is it had to have been upgraded since 1984 Do you think? A/C works but could use a shot of freon.My next question is on this van got a 302 in it. which port is my low suction side?One valve runs along rear of firewall and enters into the evaporator, the nipple is large and my r-12 to r-134 adaptor fits it.The other valve is on the drivers side right there in front w/small nipple.It runs to the condensor assembly.My adaptor does not fit this one. Any one who knows I would appreciate info. My chilton or ford Econoline books are not specific enough to tell Which is which.Thks again .RJLB........

 

The r134a valves are "dummy proof." I use this term because I am a dummy, not to imply that you are. If your adapter fits it, it is the right one. The high pressure valve is smaller than the low pressure, so you can't cross them. Hope this helps.

 

Are you not supposed to leave the r-134a adapters on the vehicle if it is converted over to r-134a? You are supposed to put the sticker they give you and stick it in the engine compartment too, telling you it has been converted. If people are converting and then pulling the adapters off and giving no documentation to the person working on the vehicle, I can see why the guys in one of the other threads were getting so uptight about people messing with ac systems who don't know what they are doing.

 

You are absolutely correct. You are supposed to leave the adapters in place once you convert to r134a. That is the whole reason the adapters are different sizes, so once you determine the high and low pressure sides, you don't have to do it again. And, yes, you are supposed to update the sticker under the hood, so the next person will know the system has been converted.

 

I feel like I have been attacked.Some garages obviously don"t practice leaving adaptors on. I had my van (mercury villager) A/C repaired at a cost of 700.00 bucks and it was r-12 now r-134 and he did not not leave his adaptors in place.Or a sticker to verify it has been upgraded.And I am not inexperienced in charging A/C systems. I just wanted to know for sure, which was my low side line. And thought this group would give me good advice which it did.And I did successfully charge my a/c in my 84 ford econoline it works much better now.RJLB>.....