Differences in brake controllers, electric vs. hydro/electric.
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Lead Driver
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From: Kuna ID
Differences in brake controllers, electric vs. hydro/electric.
I bought an 85 F-250HD supercab, and it already had a brake controller in it. I have never seen this kind before, it has a t-fitting mounted in the hydraulic brake line that runs into the controller, there is also a small pad mounted on the inner fender well with 2 springs running the length of it with a small clamp connecting them in the middle. It says to move the clamp one way for more trailer brake, and the other way for less trailer brake. I haven't seen a brand name on it or anything. Would this be better than the electronic controller I was going to install. I would think it sensing the actual brake pressure as opposed to inertia would make it better. 
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From: Wichita, KS
I had a similar gizmo on my '79 when I bought it. The springs and clamp are the rheostat that adjusts how hard the trailer brakes clamp. Mine was wired into the brake light wire, instead of the brake line itself. I'm guessing yours senses brake line pressure to activate the trailer brakes, like newer ones use the brake light wire. That does not adjust the braking force, just activates it. I took mine off and put in a new one under the dash, where it can be adjusted with a little dial right there, instead of having to get out, raise the hood, move the slider, etc.
CO River Rat
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Lake Havasu City AZ
I'd get rid of your present system and go with an inertia-style controller (Prodigy?). Like Mike said, you can adjust it while driving, plus you'll eliminate a possible source of brake fluid leakage.
Steve
Steve
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From: LAYTON, UTAH
The block with the wires on it is called a variable resistor. the old school hydralic brake controls often were not senitive enough to tow a variety of trailers, usually only big trailers, the variable resistor allows a finer tuning of the brakes for a greater variety of trailers. new brake controls are all sensitive enough and the resistor is not needed. i would get rid of it and get a new electonic brake control you will be happier and safer. look at the tekonsha prodigy or the husky excursion. old school/new school, old tech/hi tech.
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From: Southern California
It sounds like you have an old Kelsey Heyes unit. Definitaly get rid of it. There are so many better and reasonably priced controllers available that it isn't worth fooling with. Not that they don't work, they do. But it is a 'dumb' controller and not proportional. In other words, when you step on the brake it doesn't know the difference between light braking and a panic stop. They just put out the maximum voltage limited by the resistor.
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I have an old Kelsy-heyes unit under my dash on my 76. It seems to work fine with the trailer brakes, but I can not get the brakes on the truck to feel right. It feels like there is still air in the system. Is there something special I need to do when bleeding them to account for the brake controller? Should I just scrap it and get a new electric controller?
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From: Lake Havasu City AZ
SuperFord -
If it's tied into the brake hydraulic system, I'd scrap it and get a new unit; you're just gonna have to be careful about how you cap off the line. If it's not tied in, there's no way it can add air to the system.
Steve
If it's tied into the brake hydraulic system, I'd scrap it and get a new unit; you're just gonna have to be careful about how you cap off the line. If it's not tied in, there's no way it can add air to the system.
Steve
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From: Twin Cities, MN
I just got me one of them 90185 PRODIGY controllers. I got that one cause it can do up to 4 axles. And it says users can set it to apply more initial braking to the trailer first. (I thought all of them worked that way, please chime in if they do)
I'll see how I like it next month when I hook up to a larger trailer.
I didn't get a cheap one cause I figured what if I get a larger trailer with more axles. You just never know.
One other thing I didn't do was get Fords 7flat plug cause I didn't want to pay their price. I picked up a plug and wired it to a metal 7flat with a custom mounting plate I made myself using 1/8 inch steel. It won't bend if I back in to something, unlike Fords cheap mounting plate. I did however use Fords prewired wires for the controller.
I'll see how I like it next month when I hook up to a larger trailer.
I didn't get a cheap one cause I figured what if I get a larger trailer with more axles. You just never know.
One other thing I didn't do was get Fords 7flat plug cause I didn't want to pay their price. I picked up a plug and wired it to a metal 7flat with a custom mounting plate I made myself using 1/8 inch steel. It won't bend if I back in to something, unlike Fords cheap mounting plate. I did however use Fords prewired wires for the controller.
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Probably less than 200 buck installed for a new inertia unit ... I'd get rid of the old hydraulic unit as soon as possible ... Prodigy works very well, although it comes at a premium. I've towed with the voyager for years and liked it also, but upgraded to the prodicgy "just because". It does give smoother braking because you can fine tune the boost better.
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