Yes compressed air is ok........ One major point is cover the top fuel inlet holes on the injectors, also after removal protect the fine tip protruding from the injector base. Caps can be procured for the top and the base.

Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the capline nuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best, place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.

Remember to remove the copper washer from the hole after injector removal. Before installing injectors clean the hole, coat the copper seal, injector threads and barrel lightly with anti seize compound. Torque 35 ft lbs (X2). Note try not to put excess carbon into cylinder hole, if injector is carboned up and stuck email me or post back ASAP.

 

plc7.3,
thanks for the reply, when installing the orings what kind of grease can i use? axle grease, 3 in 1, motor oil? torque on the injectors is 35 ft lbs. what about cleaning the injectors while they are off? please tell me about the problem with a injector being carboned up and or stuck. i did have alot of junk built up around the injectors where they thread into the cylinder hole but i have worked most of it off with wd-40 and a paint brush. thank you so much for your info and help, i'll let you know how it turns out. thanks again.

 

I use vaseline on the orings, cleans up easy. I like Mercury Power Tune for carbon cleaning, they can be sprayed then left to soak. You do NOT want to immerse the injector in cleaning fluid as any dirt in the inlet will screwup the injector, keep the inlet capped. It would be wise to have the injectors 3 way tested (pop, spray and leakoff) before replacement or just buy 8 new.

The point about the carbon is IF the copper seal "did not" then exhaust gases will enter the bore where the injector fits. Since the copper seal is the only seal, the comp gases will vent out the top threads in most cases eventually filling the bore with carbon.

When you try to unscrew the injector in some cases the body will separate, because the carbon holds the lower part of the body although the top unscrews. That is when things get interesting and that cylinder should be brought to TDC to contain the carbon that can get into the cylinder and cause carbon induced hydrolock symptoms. You may not run into this but if you do Post back ASAP.