Ok folks, just thought I should give you an update on how things are going on the new truck. Yesterday i pressure washed the engine, and threw a home-made tymar on there (mostly because the stock one was driving me crazy!) I pulled in in the garage (barely fit!) and started working on it this morning. Using a combo of directions, from various sources, especially 1997 F-350 (Thanks again Ryan for the help!! ) I sucked the oil outta the HPOP, drained the fuel bowl and got the driver's side VC and gasket off. Then drained the oil rails and let is sit for a while. the Injectors were a royal pain the the be-hind to get out of there, the dinkey little pry bar i had was doing didely-squat, so i switched over to a full sized crow bar and CAREFULLY pryed them out of there, from the injector coller. the driver-side injectors all came out looking great, with a tad of carbon build up on the tip (which seems resonable for 140K) I threw the now O-ring kit on (had a fun time getting that pink O-ring on there ) then i used a 60cc syringe to pull as much of the oil and diesel out of the cylenders. seemed to work well, and i'll get the rest out by bumping the starter with the GP's out. Then I pulled the GP's and re-installed the gasket and put the valve cover on with 4-bolts, for the time-being (i'll get back to that later.... note the gp's are still out) the passenger side was a pain in the rear. even after pulling the A/C vacuum resivor tank, that last VC bolt was not coming out! I had my way with it, and it eventually came out. Then i did the same smeal as the other side, and noticed the the 2nd injector had a TON of carbon uild up on it, and was missing the lower copper washer. looking inside the injector bore, you can see where it has deteriated and left crap everywhere. I guess this explains the blue smoke i was getting around 3 grand on the tack.... oh well i don't have the money for new injectors right now so i just cleaned it up and will hope for the best. I ran out of steam at this point so i took a break. Tomorrow i'll try and get a few picks up (for those of you who haven't seen these injectors up close and person.... there HUGE!) and finish off my project with the re-installing passenger side injts. bunp the starter over to get more crap out, then pull the VC's off and install thge new GP's and button everything back up. Then get her running and install the new stancor GPR and maby the new downpipe.... I'll keep Yall posted on how things go... take care!

-Robb

 

Oh one question.... the ICP is located dircetly behind the sensor on the top of the HPOP correct? the reason i ask is because i just picked up a new one, part number f6tz-9f838-a and the part that looks like a nut thay you would use to secure it to the truck looks much larger that the one on there now. Maby they changed the design to make it easier to put on? any ideas on this would be great, i'll trya and get a pick up with a side by side comparison tomorrow....

-Robb

 

the sensor is on the head. drivers side all the way up forward. yes the new versions are bigger so you dont have to modify a wrench like the old style. to get the old one out just use some pliers.

sorry on the bad gouge for the little crowbar. my 1 foot sears special did the trick very easily on mine.
good luck

few things

i have good luck with the rear bolts with either 3/8 universals and extensions or 1/4 drive ratchet and socket.

i think you found your problem congrats.

 

Hey man don't worry aout that..... without your help on the directions i would be screwed!! so thanks again for the help!


As for the ICP..... are you sure that the sensor that you just refered to is the IPR? i thought the sensor that was attached to the oil rail was the IPR... and the one that is elevated on the passenger side directly behind the HPOP sensor was the ICP?? I could be going crazy from all the PB-blaster fumes though...

-Robb

 

ok icp is in driver side head oil rail. it goes in one of the 4 holes that contain the brass plugs.


ipr is in back of hpop down in the valley drivers side just under fpr. if you need pics just let me know.

 

actually if you don't mind, a pick would be great.... i'm not putting it in untill tuesday, so no rush on the pick. thanks

-Robb

 

nope rush.....brb

 

ENJOY!!!!!

 

Ryan, if you didn't live on the other side of the country, I'd drive over to your house with a case of beer for ya! thanks!

-Robb

 

lol... no problem. welcome back to fte. thats what we are here for brother.

 

ok SO! today I got the passenger side injectors installed with the new O-rings and then installed the VC and turned the engine over to get the oil and diesel out of the cylinders. then i pulled the VC's again and installed all 8 GP's and buttoned everything back up again. I then filled the HPOP, and pulled the oil galley plugs that are on the sides of the rail and filled them as well. I then turned the motor over, w/ #9 maxi pulled, to get the oil circulating. Then once the oil came out one side i installed the bolt and switched over to the other side. Cranked again till oil came out then capped it and filled the HPOP again. Then i cranked it with everything closed up to pressurise the oil system. I did this 4 times, in 15 min intervals, checking the HPOP level after each 30 sec crank, (and the level never really went down because the oil rails were already full) Then i put the #9 maxi fuse in, said a prayer, and cranked it over, Fired up on the first shot!!!!!! I let it idle for 10 min in the garage, then pulled it outside and let it idle another 5 or so. I then jumped in and crused around slow at first, to make sure that there wern't any issues....

... Now for the problems. after running around a bit, i shut the engine off and charged the batteries up. Then i went to start it again, it took much more cranking than normal to start. It did this every time i tried to start it for the rest of the day! So! for those of you who have pulled injectors, have you had any problems starting AFTER the initial startup? I have a new starter (the old one grinds occationaly) and an ICP sitting downstairs to install tomorrow, but i'd like to know if there are any possible solutions to this before i go replacing stuff. Thanks folks!

-Robb

 

yeah you got air in the system still. take her for a drive. it will get better. did it on mine and dads.

 

alright sounds good. I'll drive it around a bunch tomorrow and hopefully it will circulate the air out..... another quick question, the stupit Engine Temp light keeps coming on, the temp gauge is less than half-way in normal, and i pulled the dip stick to see if the oil was getting hot which it wasn't. So should i be worried about that, or just drive it as is?

 

probably just a bad sensor. as long as she isnt overheating you will be ok.

 

So today was the final day of the project..... for now...first i started by installing the new Downpipe. Boy what a PITA to get the oid one out of there!! first off it took a while to elevate the 90* bend up high enough to chop it off, then i had to make another cut on the bottom half to slide it down the rest of the way. Talk about a poorly engineered DP... the stock one must really restrict the flow! to make clearence for the new pipe, i took the saw-zall out again, and cut slits up in the floorpan/firewall seam first. then started to bend the tabs with a crow bar. then i switched over to the air-chisel (thank god for air tools!) and jammed the tabs flush against the floor pan. The lower section slid right on with a little WD and everything bolted right up... with about 1/4" room between anything on the firewall side, and about 1/8" from the up-pipe. I figured all was good so I tightened everything down. Since the old starter was grinding a bit, i threw a new on on, took about 20 min no biggie. Then i slapped the new Stancor GPR on there..... man is that sucker big in there! after i had everything buttoned up, I turned the key, and the voltage went down past where it normally would (GPR is pulling plenty of juice to the gp's) fired right up, no smoke of any kind. So I'm happy with the way things have worked out. I still have to put the ICP on sometime, and throw a CPS on to cover all the bases, and now all I need to do is fix this peskey "Engine Temp" light.... Ryan thanks again for the help.... and one last question, where is the "Engine Temp" light sensor located? and is it something i can change without draining the coolant? thanks!

-Robb