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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

56 door adjust

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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 04:26 PM
  #1  
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56 door adjust

Both drivers and passenger doors work very well. There is no sag in the drivers although the passenger door does drop a bit on openning. Both doors weatherstrip are firmly in place and in good condition. The main problem is that when the drivers door is in the closed position it still has 1/4 inch play and rattles like heck when in motion.

Is there and adjustment? Thanks!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 07:26 PM
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I also have a 56. I don't believe there is any adjustment for what you are talking about. I have new hinges that I haven't installed yet that promise to take care of the same problem.

I have heard that they can be rebuilt. They have rivets as pivot pins. Drill out and replace the rivets is what I have been told. Haven't tried it myself.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 07:33 PM
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Are you sure it has the correct weatherstripping? Are the gaps even all around?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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drilling and repinning works
 
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Old Feb 21, 2005 | 11:02 PM
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Sounds like your hingers may be worn out. When the door is open try and lift it up. If it moves then you know the pins are worn or the hinges have ovalized the pin holes. If it doesn't move then you may just have to shim the lower hinge on the passenger door to bring it into alignment. As for the driver's door, if the outside is fitting real nice to the cab and you still have a rattle then either your latch is worn out or the weatherstripping you have is the wrong thickness. Good luck!

Craig
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 08:44 AM
  #6  
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Depends on which side is rattling. If it's the hinge side it's repin time, if it's the latch side, adjust the latch. Check the star wheel in the latch and the part of the catch that catches the star wheel for wear or looseness as well. If the door is fitting flush with the outside you may need to replace/shim the weatherstripping.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 09:00 AM
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The door sits out about 1/4 inch. The weatherstripping looks the same as the passenger side, that is working fine. It does appear to be the latch so maybe a replacement is in order.

Thanks,
Doug
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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don't forget that the striker plates can be adjusted up/down and in and out. the in/out adjustment should help take care of the how tight your door is when it is shut.

abe
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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how do you drill and repin a hinge?

abe
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 11:24 AM
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When you close the door, and press it in until it is real snug, is the back edge of the door flush with the cab? If it sticks out a little then I would say you just need to adjust the latch as suggested above. If the door is slightly inside the edge of the cab, then the door rubber needs to be replaced with a new piece. Just rewording what has already been pointed out. Jag
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by abe
how do you drill and repin a hinge?

abe
Abe

It’s been about 4 years since I did mine and it was a 53 of course. As I recall, I had to grind the bottom of the pin first a bit because it was staked. Then drive out the pin with a punch/drift. I had to use heat on my hinges. Something I normally don’t suggest if it isn’t necessary. But it wasn’t going to happen otherwise. You can buy the pins from an Effie supply house, or you can use a regular hinge pin from the auto parts store. Trim to length as needed. Drill and pin the end that protrudes out the bottom of the hinge, or try to peen it down a bit, but they are pretty strong.

It's not complicated, but it was not simple on my Effie. Hinges from the 70-80s are easier.

AZWAFREE

That sounds like a striker plate adjustment or severe wear.
 

Last edited by fatfenders; Feb 22, 2005 at 03:19 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 03:20 PM
  #12  
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I sent them to a machine shop, cost $33.00, worth every cent
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 04:32 PM
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My doors were not closing properly and I made some slight adjustments to striker plates and that tighten things up. Shuts really nice with very little push.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 05:12 PM
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Mine has new door rubbers and it is hard to get it to shut without slamming it. I'm wondering if my striker plates might be in too far. There are two teeth on the bottom for the striker plate for the star wheel to latch onto. I think I will experiment this weekend on possibly moving the striker plate out to where the wheel can catch on the second tooth. I have the striker plate about 1/8" from the back lip. Does anybody else have any idea what is correct for setting it? Jag
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 06:55 PM
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"Does anybody else have any idea what is correct for setting it? Jag"

Way too many variables for a precision spec John. I adjusted mine until they shut correctly. BTW, something I had previously believed outside the capability of stock door hardware. When you got it right, stock door latches can work very precisely. I've got loose star wheels and they still latch nice.

If you're weatherstripping is new, you may need to follow up later on with another adjust after the seals wear in. (And they will)
 
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