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Hope you all can help me. My '97 F250 has run great up until today. I went out to fire it up after sitting all night, (drove it yesterday, no problem) left it for a few minutes to warm up, and it died. Will not start up now. It is cranking fine, voltmeter shows normal 12 volts, but won't turn over. Only idiot light on is the bat light, but I'm not sure if that one is always on when cranking. The tach is not moving though, does this mean it is the CPS? Only thing different is that I filled up with fuel three days ago, from the same place I always get it, so I don't think fuel is the problem. Has a new (1 month) fuel filter, and oil change less than 1K. Thanks in advance for any help.
Tach not moving is "almost" definately the CPS. Although it could be low batteries, enough juice to crank but not enough to fire the injectors. But since you stated it started then died, it is looking like a bad cps. If it doesn't fix your problem at least you have a spare cps for when it does fail.
Mike
Thanks for your response. I was thinking the same thing. I am going to try and jump it off anyway, just to rule out the batteries. BTW- I just noticed my glow plug light isn't coming on either, could my relay have gone bad?
Well, I tried to jump it off, still no luck. Does this mean I can rule out the batteries? I am a little suspicious that the "wait" light is not coming on anymore. Could this mean it is the glow plug relay, or is the CPS still the likely problem? After reading some other posts about CPSs, it seems most of them gave sporadic problems before finally dieing. Do these things often just quit for good without any warning? BTW-I priced a new CPS at the local Ford stealership- $183, this sounds high compared with other people who have posted on here. I will try the International dealership tomorrow. I'm in no great hurry to get 'er running, so maybe I will try the internet ordering route. Any good places to get these online? Lots of questions, I know. But would appreciate any input.
Give us a little more info. Any mods, chips? If your batt's are ok, check to see if fuel pump is delivering fuel to fuel bowl. If it is check hpop oil level, should be at least 1" from plug. Check clarity of fuel by draining fuel bowl into glass container. Let us know. Good luck!!!!
Thanks for the response. No, no mods that I know of. I have only owned the truck since Nov. I am pretty sure the fuel is ok, new filter and I always use DK, but I will drain the fuel bowl just to be sure. Usually I get the water in fuel light, or fuel filter light if that is the problem. I am going to see if I can get a code scanner from the auto parts store today. Is is significant that the "wait" light isn't coming on anymore? It usually come on for 2-5 seconds depending on external temp and if I plugged the night prior.
I had same problem once, would'nt start, no wait to start light and no tach when try to start. Turned out to be a chip in the computer in the driver side floor board went bad. Pulled the chip all was fine started right up.
Well, I just ran the code checker on it, and the computer wouldn't communicate with the scanner. It was an obdII scanner, which I am pretty sure is the right one. Any ideas? I think I am going to go ahead and get a CPS from International and try that. Hopefully,that will do it.
No " Wait to Start Light" Check fuse #22 in the engine compartment most likely your fuel heater shorted out. Get new fuse and unplug lower plug on the right side of the fuel bowl.
Domino-Thanks for the advice. Went out to check fuze #22 and it looks brand new. Dang! I would have loved for it to be something so simple too. Oh well. I am still going to try the CPS route, but the International dealer is out of them for a few days unfortunately. Good price though, $90 vs. Ford $183. Still looking for any other ideas if anyone has them.
Well, I decided to take have it towed to the dealer this morning. The service manager suspects it is the CPS, but won't know for sure until he gets a mechanic on it. It ticks me off having to rely on the dealer, but I figured I may as well get some use out of my service contract while I have it. I'll keep you all informed on what the dealer finds.
Well, here is an update and the results from taking it to the dealer. $569.56 later, the truck is running fine.
The dealer replaced the CPS, the EBPV and the glow plug relay. I initially thought it was just the CPS, but the dealer found the rest of this to replace. I'm a little confused because the glow plugs seemed to be working fine before It quit running. Can the CPS going out blow out the glow plug relay as well, or was it just a coincidence? What exactly does the EBPV do?
I hated spending so much to get it fixed, but this was probably outside my diagnostic skills. What really ticks me off is that none of this was covered by my Wynn's extended warranty. I would advise anyone to skip the Wynn's coverage it they are ever offered it. They were rude and evasive when I talked to them on the phone. Wouldn't even spring for a 1.5 mile tow to the dealer. Cheap *******s...
Sounds to me like the dealer is making up stuff. I can't believe they would replace all that and only charge you $570. Sounds like they changed the CPS and just checked the exhaust back pressure valve and glow plug relay. The exhaust back pressure valve restricts the exhaust coming out of the turbo and helps the engine warm up quicker when the ambient temperature is low. It wouldn't have anything to do CPS. CPS going bad shouldn't affect the GPR either. Sounds a little fishy....
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