Starting problems...
My truck will not start cold without ether. I'll do a 15 sec burn on the glow plugs and while cranking I can feel it try to start but it won't take off. It does 3 surges like it's trying to start but it won't. When it's warm (at or near operating temp) it fires right off. It also blows white to light gray smoke nearly all the time. very little at idle, increasing with rpms and load. Also feel like its lacking power. I've got 8 new injectors in and all 8 glow plugs work.
Joe suggested low compression causing it to not start cold. Could it be a worn IP? What do y'all think?
Some of this probably isn't real clear, so ask away if i can help you understand.
Thanks for the help!
9 out of 10 times one requires either to start, either the glow plugs aren't working, cranking speed is not high enough or you have air intrusion.
On the smoking have you checked the timing, did you use new or rebuilt injectors.
Close to the dip stick you should see the connector.
Look at the end with two large AWG orange wires with white or green stripe.
If the connector looks like it has been hot on that end, your glow plugs are getting little or no power.
The fix, cut both orange wires off close to the connector on both sides and splice them together.
Dave, that connector has been bypassed already. The power runs through a solenoid, then through a single (probably) 10ga wire to the factory harness. The wire hasn't melted or anything, but are you thinking it's not getting enough amperage through? All i can say is that they are getting 12V, I don't know about the amperage getting though...
One for each cylinder bank.
I think I would double up on the 10 gauge from the relay to the engine harness and see if that helps.
While you are there, check all the wire connections from the battery to the relay.
At just shy of 200 amps, a little corrosion (AKA resistance) drops the current flow rather fast.
I tripled the wire from the battery to the gp solenoid and doubled it from there to the harness and no change.
Also, I tried to check the compression but the damn tester i bought has an incorrectly designed adapter...won't fit.
I tried advancing the timing a little more and it still didn't make a difference. Is there a way to check the gear timing without tearing half the motor apart?
Also, is it possible (or likely) for the IP to be worn enough that it can't generate the proper amount of pressure to atomize the fuel?
As for the IP, if the mileage on it is unknown, it could be worn out.
I hate to tell you that with so little other information.
How did the power seem when it was running?
The white to light grey smoke, worse at higher RPM's sorta points to injectors that are not spraying correctly.
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I'd think there are between 137k and 140k miles on the truck and IP. It felt like it was really sluggish while running. I removed the stack and cut the y off the pipes and it feels a lot better, but still won't start cold.
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