When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This has been a nagging problem, but with help from many of you I have it narrowed down. My front tank does not switch or read the gauge. I have tested everything and it is down to no power to the under dash switch. All the grounds are good. The switch is new. The red with yellow wire is supposed to be hot with the key on. I get no power. All fuses are good. I don't know where it gets power from. Question - can I just cut the wire and by pass and run a new hot wire with a fuse, and does it have to be hot with key on only? Thanks for your help.
Yes I have it. You sent it to me the other day, and it is very helpful to have. When the problem first started I replaced the under dash switch because it was the easiest part. Then after you sent me the test, I started checking things. I thought the valve was bad, so I took one off a donor truck I have. That didn't work, so I thought it was bad because it was old. So I went and bought a new valve and solenoid at the dealer and installed it. Nothing changed. So I went back and find I have no power to the switch. The ground is good, but the hot is dead. It is supposed to be hot in run or start, but nothing. The fuses are good, so I assumed a bad wire. So I thought the easiest thing would be to run a new hot wire with a fuse. Does that sound reasonable, or should I keep tracing the wire back. It is an E series that used to be a short bus, so the electric is a nightmare. Thanks for the help.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.