Bleeding front brakes
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Medford, OR
Bleeding front brakes
I asked this question on the brakes forum, but am not getting any answers. I am attempting to bleed the brakes on my Bronco and cannot seem to figure out how to losen the bleed valve on the front brakes. Does anyone know what size/type of wrench is required to losen them? Every size I have tried seems like it is going to stip the nut. Thanks!
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Groton, CT
Typically a 3/8" wrench does the job. If you are having a lot of trouble breaking them loose, they could be seized. Had that happen to me on my last Bronc, ended up replacing the calipers. If you snap one off, you may be able to get the core out with an EZ out. That worked for me, but I was concerned about metal shavings in the cylinder so I replaced the calipers to be safe.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Houston
do your self a favor and spray some wd-40 or some of that stuff you use for locks ( I cant remember the name of it) spray on, let sit over night. If your hex head is striped use a nice size pair of vice-grips. It worked on mine that way. I striped the crap out of it. with the wrench.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Canada
Before you start tap the head of the bleeder to break the threads free. It usually works for me.
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From: Minneapolis, MN
I use a deep socket (don't remember the exact size, metric or SAE) with a 3/8" drive ratchet. Soak it real good with PB Blaster overnight prior to turning. Once it is loose you can use a regular open end or flare wrench to proceed with the bleeding process.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 877
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From: South Florida
Maybe heat it up with a torch....
You can apply some JB Blaster penetrating spray and a propane torch to it to free it if you haven't mangled it yet. Use either a brake-line wrench or a deep 6-point socket, NOT a 12-point socket (it'll round off the fitting...). Tap the tool with a small mallet or hammer to crack it lose.
Mike
'96 5.8L EB
Mike
'96 5.8L EB
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Medford, OR
I am thinking what I might do is just start over with new rotors and calipers and see where that gets me. I have always had a problem where it pulls off to one side or the other during braking so I might end up needing to take it to a shop anyways.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Im doing the calipers and the rotors now. I also got new lines.
Got a question??? what is the easy way to remove the line where its on the shock tower? I just looked at it and didnt get to it yet but I figured Knowledge is power, before I brake somthing...
Got a question??? what is the easy way to remove the line where its on the shock tower? I just looked at it and didnt get to it yet but I figured Knowledge is power, before I brake somthing...
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Canada
If you've got new hoses, then cut the old ones off close to the steel brake line and when you detach the hose from the steel line, hold the steel line fitting and turn the hose fitting. I've stripped so many of those, then having to cut off the rounded fitting. Its not fun trying to re-flare a line while its on the truck.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Originally Posted by jacque_strap
If you've got new hoses, then cut the old ones off close to the steel brake line and when you detach the hose from the steel line, hold the steel line fitting and turn the hose fitting. I've stripped so many of those, then having to cut off the rounded fitting. Its not fun trying to re-flare a line while its on the truck.
Ok that sounds like a Plan that is my next step just got done with the Rotors Thank God I put those Man hubs on last year it makes the Rotors so Much easier!!
Is there a "clip" that holds them in the shock tower????? There seems to be some sort of "clip" there Behind the shock tower. Any advice on that?
Thanks again Everyone here is SO helpfull and FAST!!!
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