Serious '76 302 problems.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 67
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From: Virginia
Serious '76 302 problems.
Motor has been running like crap, and smoking, so I did a compression test today.
1- 90
2- 122
3- 100
4- 120
5- 0!!
6- 140
7- 140
8- 120
What would cause cylinder #5 to have no compression? The motor also smokes out of the PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover. There was also some white oily substance on the oil filler cap, my father said there might be water in the basepan. What do you guys make of this? Low oil pressure is almost too common.
What would I be looking at to rebuild the motor money wise? I don't need a performance rebuild, just something reliable.
I'd hate to see this thing go to waste.
1- 90
2- 122
3- 100
4- 120
5- 0!!
6- 140
7- 140
8- 120
What would cause cylinder #5 to have no compression? The motor also smokes out of the PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover. There was also some white oily substance on the oil filler cap, my father said there might be water in the basepan. What do you guys make of this? Low oil pressure is almost too common.
What would I be looking at to rebuild the motor money wise? I don't need a performance rebuild, just something reliable.
I'd hate to see this thing go to waste.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: midwest
sounds like it needs a freshen up, no big deal on a 76. you problably have leaking rings and valves. i would pull the motor, hone the cylinders, replace the rings and bearings, install a new gasket kit after cleaning and checking everything then run it. a master overhaul kit comes with a new oil pump, timing set and everything else you need to rebuild it to stock form, they are as cheap as $140....
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
I was thinking a cracked block because of the white condensation on the inside of the valve covers. I guess there's really only one way to find out. This truck probably won't pass inspection again, so unless I find a decent body to swap the 302 into, there won't be a need to rebuild.
Any other opinions?
Any other opinions?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Where might I find one of these master overhaul kits for $140, and of what quality is it? I don't want to put the cheapest stuff I can find in it, but like I said, I also don't need a million dollar performance rebuild.
I found an abandoned 77 F100 with a decent body. This one has A/C and an auto trans, which is what I wanted in the first place. The guy that bought the land said I could have it for $50 and apply for an abandoned vehicle title, or if I couldn't get one, use it for parts.
So about them kits, which do you guys prefer?
I found an abandoned 77 F100 with a decent body. This one has A/C and an auto trans, which is what I wanted in the first place. The guy that bought the land said I could have it for $50 and apply for an abandoned vehicle title, or if I couldn't get one, use it for parts.
So about them kits, which do you guys prefer?
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 2
From: Marana, AZ
As for the compression check, #5 is a dead cylinder, could be a valve stuck open, could be a crack in the block. Pull the valve cover off and crank the motor and watch #5's valves and see what their doing. Could be collapsed rings, or could be you lost a keeper on one of the valve springs. A tear done will reveal much.
As for the whiteness around your filler cap. Drain the oil and see if there is any water in it. If a large amount of water is present it could be a blown head gasket or a cracked block. If its a small amount its just excessive condensation.
Any way you look at it your in for a rebuild. A master rebuild kit will include your gaskets, bearings, pistons, rings, timing set and seals. They can be as high as $350.00 for a set. Flatlanderracing.com has them. Before you do your rebuild, take your block in and have it magnafluxed for cracks and mic the cylinder walls for taper. If its all within standards, have the cylinder walls de-ridged and honed. Any good machine shop can do all this for you fairly cheap.
Check Ebay for some prices too.
As for the whiteness around your filler cap. Drain the oil and see if there is any water in it. If a large amount of water is present it could be a blown head gasket or a cracked block. If its a small amount its just excessive condensation.
Any way you look at it your in for a rebuild. A master rebuild kit will include your gaskets, bearings, pistons, rings, timing set and seals. They can be as high as $350.00 for a set. Flatlanderracing.com has them. Before you do your rebuild, take your block in and have it magnafluxed for cracks and mic the cylinder walls for taper. If its all within standards, have the cylinder walls de-ridged and honed. Any good machine shop can do all this for you fairly cheap.
Check Ebay for some prices too.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: midwest
i got a kit from PAW for my buddies 302. its not top of the line but its been 2 years since the rebuild and he's had no problems yet. i think its a good kit for the price and for something built to daily drive on the street. i doubt if the blocks cracked if its not overheating or getting coolant in the oil. if its just a little white residue in the filler cap thats normal. just alittle moisture can cause that. 302 is a tough engine for the size and i see 10 cracked chevy heads and blocks for every 1 ford. they can handle some abuse. you would more likely have a leaking head gasket then a crack.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Thanks for the input fellas. I will do a complete oil change tomorrow, along with taking both valve covers off to replace the gaskets, and to inspect #5's valves. I will take note of the amount of water in the oil.
What would cause the PCV valve on the passenger side to blow out smoke? I can't plug it into the air cleaner assembly or the motor will die out. If the head is my main problem, I will get another one to get by until I get my car going good enough to do the rebuild on the truck.
Thanks again.
What would cause the PCV valve on the passenger side to blow out smoke? I can't plug it into the air cleaner assembly or the motor will die out. If the head is my main problem, I will get another one to get by until I get my car going good enough to do the rebuild on the truck.
Thanks again.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,656
Likes: 5
From: shepherd
when you unplug that pcv hose from wherever it is connected to, it is going to die because you would make a big vaccum leak. as long as that pcv is hooked to full manifold vacuum(vacuum at all times), it should work. now as for your vacuum line that goes to the distibutor, it goes to a timed vacuum port on the bottom of the carb somewhere. that only get vacuum when the motor is not idling. the smoke is coming out because you got major blowby, that motor is beat. does it smoke whitish blue out the tailpipe all the time and when accellerating hard.does it do it when first cranked.i doubt you got a bad block or head, it's hard to do that. either a burned or stuck valve is what i think. but still you need new rings. and a head rebuild wouldn't hurt either.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 67
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From: Virginia
The motor runs 100 times better with that pcv valve unplugged. I think the disty line is plugged into the right ort now. If I plug either of those PCV valve lines into the motor, then it dies.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,656
Likes: 5
From: shepherd
replace the pcv valve and see whats up, with the pcv valve disconnected, you are hurting the rings and seal even more. actually if i were you i would pull the motor now and rering and bearing it with a hone and it's your choice to replace the timing chain and rebuild the heads but i would do both.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 67
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From: Virginia
How do I tell what type of heads are on this motor? I'm seriously thinking, this 302 has quite a bit of power for running on 7 cyls and crappy compression. I have taken note of the 6 valve cover bolts, and that the rocker arms sit on a stud, with a nut to tighten them up. This mean anything?
How about the intake, anyway to tell from a casting #?
I am seriously considering restoring the truck somewhat, but want to do a little more research. I have until April when it goes back for inspection. I know it will need brakes, front cab mounts, floorboards, and exhaust. Is it true that trucks before 78 don't have to have cats? Where can I find the mounts/floorboards?
I've also noticed that the driveshaft seems to be too short. Someone did the 3 speed w/ OD manual transmission swap, what driveshaft should I look for?
How about the intake, anyway to tell from a casting #?
I am seriously considering restoring the truck somewhat, but want to do a little more research. I have until April when it goes back for inspection. I know it will need brakes, front cab mounts, floorboards, and exhaust. Is it true that trucks before 78 don't have to have cats? Where can I find the mounts/floorboards?
I've also noticed that the driveshaft seems to be too short. Someone did the 3 speed w/ OD manual transmission swap, what driveshaft should I look for?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Just did some searching at JC Whitney, should only cost me about $185 to get the truck to pass inspection, exhaust not included.
That includes:
Front Cab Mounts
Outer Cab Floorboard Panels
Replacement Grill
Window Weather Stripping
Of course I'll have to throw in a few more nickle and dimes, but not seeming so bad. What's the best size exhaust to throw on this puppy, it's running open Y pipe right now
That includes:
Front Cab Mounts
Outer Cab Floorboard Panels
Replacement Grill
Window Weather Stripping
Of course I'll have to throw in a few more nickle and dimes, but not seeming so bad. What's the best size exhaust to throw on this puppy, it's running open Y pipe right now
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