How much rotation (Right to Left) should there be in the steering wheel with out the tires moving on a '48 F-5?
How much play is too much?

Also noticed there are no shocks or shock mounts on it. Normal?

 

Ron,

I don't believe there is a specification for the allowable amount of steering wheel lash. Most of the service literature I've seen gives the force required to turn the steering wheel with the pitman arm (sector shaft) disconnected from the steering gearbox. These specs are to get the proper preload on the bearings in the gearbox.

The amount of steering wheel lash will depend not only on your steering gearbox, but also on the condition and adjustment of various other items. Here's a list of stuff that can make your steering loose or uneven:

- steering box shaft bearings
- steering box worm and sector shaft gears
- pitman arm (sector shaft) bushings
- pitman arm (sector shaft) ball
- drag link innards
- driver side spidle arm ball
- king pins and bushings
- leaf spring pins and bushings (and the leaf springs themselves, if they are really bad)
- wheel bearings
- tie rod ends

My 1956 F-250 is smaller than your F-5, but I have thoroughly checked, upgraded, and adjusted all the stuff in the list. Essentially, the front end is "as good as it gets" for a stock setup (no comments from the IFS crowd ).

I just went out to the garage and "played" with my steering for a few minutes. I have less than +/- 1/2" (probably more like +/- 1/4") movement of the steering wheel rim before the front wheels move. My rolling chassis is on jack stands, so there is no weight on the front tires. I don't think that affects things too much, in fact, it might make it easier to feel the first movement of the tires.

You can use this as a starting point, at least, to get some idea of where you are with your steering. Good luck getting it to drive the way you'd like.

 

Thanks George

Sittin' on my bench is the King Pin Kit, New Pitman arm, New Drag Link, and two new Tie Rod ends.
It's just been too damn cold to grasp tools for an extended period of time.

Today was the first day in 15 days the temp went above 32 degrees! made it to 34!

If you look in my gallery you can see the "tank".
Your measurement, is that taken from where the steering wheel meets the column?

Thanks Again.

Mabe a "Big Yellow" steering stablizer is in the future!

 

Ron,

I know about the cold. Add a little arthritis in and even here in Ohio, it's cold enough to discourage me a bit.

I measured the steering wheel movement at the steering wheel outer rim.

 

Wow, That's "tight"
Me thinks I'm screwed

 

With the wheels on the ground in driving condition you can handle 1" to 1 1/2" pretty easy. More than that and you start playing catch up. When mine hits 2" I snug the adjuster up finger tight and call it good.

You can snug up the drag link on both ends to get rid of some play. And then adjust the box. For that adjustment, raise both wheels off the ground, center the steering wheel with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw in (CW) carefully. What you're doing is pushing the sector roller into the worm gear. You want to just barely feel the tight spot at center when you turn the steering wheel back and forth.

If there is no more adjustment left - it's time to rebuild or replace the box.

 

Right now, before I put in all the new parts listed above, the steering wheel (from the outside rim) rotates 3 1/2" before and load from the wheels take.
Lets see what happens after the re-build!

 

MIne moved about 1/4 before the wheels moved. That's 1/4 a turn of the steering wheel, which made driving an aerobic exercise. I replaced the box with a really tight one and now the movement is maybe 1/2 inch before the wheels move.

Bubba

 

My free play in the steering wheel is about 145 degrees. The wheel can be turned almost half of the the way around before the wheels start to turn. 1/4 turn would be 90 degrees, but it is not 180 degrees, about halfway between 90 and 180. Yes I have a steering box getting rebuilt now and when that is replaced I will check the rest of the steering mechanisms involved as George listed above.

abe

 

Boy abe and Bubba, I don't want to meet you guys in a dark alley. I'm imagining a couple dudes with Popeye arms!

 

George,
You needn't be afraid of me cause of Popeye arms. My truck steers easy while it is moving, quite difficult when backing and sitting, of course. Now if I am driving the truck down that alley I may hit you as I weave to and fro!!!

abe

 

I had nearly a 1/4 turn of freeplay in the panel when I bought it. Found that all of it was between the pitman arm and the ram PS controller. Everything else in the entire front end was new. It sure made for an "interesting" 2K mile drive home. Wasn't hardly noticable on the straight low traffic areas even at 80MPH, but got into a lot of truck traffic or thru the mountains and it would dance around and decide to change lanes unexpectedly. Would have to overcorrect back and forth a couple times each time.
I would recommend that in checking your steering for free play especially with power steering/assist you lock a tire from being able to turn. Many times the tire is actually turning a small amount which is multiplied back to the large diameter steering wheels in these trucks. You can make a simple wheel lock with a section of 2x4 against the inside of the wheel (pass side is best) with short sections at the ends wedged between the 2x and the frame. Now you can have someone move the wheel back and forth as far as they can, starting at the steering box watch where something is moving while what it's connected to is not. Loading it like that should make it obvious what needs to be adjusted or replaced. I have seen cases where everything seemed OK without a load, but then locking the wheel showed a flexing tie rod or a tierod end that was made tight with grease until it was loaded. Worn idler arms would also show up.

 

That's a great Idea!
I now know what I'm doing this weekend>