do i need a capacitor?
#46
When we're referring to caps in this thread, it was in reference to high-powered ammpliefiers that draw a non-continuous current from the vehicle's power system (an unregulated, variable load). When you're talking about lights, winches, etc., you're talking about a continuous load draw (when they're on). If you're adding some serious lights to your truck, an upgraded alternator is the way to go (a cap wouldn't serve any useful purpose other than to add an additional load to the power system). It is noteworthy that, if your running a low RPMs a lot, you may want to considering an extra battery - dedicated to the lights you've added. Many alternators don't put out sufficient current to recharge the battery under load at low RPMs. My moving optional lighting to a dedicated battery (you need an extra battery and battery isolator), if you kill it flat, it won't stop you from starting your vehicle or running other ncessary devices.
#47
#48
Battery beats out a capacitor every day. I rarely install a capacitor for my customers unless they really want one. Sometimes I put one on the amp just to get the few extra dollars from the customer but ALWAYS upgrade them into a better battery. Batter of choice for me is a SVR battery. They have a top and side post that I use all the time. Every once in a while I use a yellow topper but they are just overpriced I believe. They got soooo popular that they just jacked the price on them. Years ago I used to work for Hawker Energy. They manufacturer the Stinger, SVR, Yellow and Red topper batteries. I used to get the batteries for $25.00 a piece for them by the pallet till a guy got busted for trying to steal a few pallets. Ruined it for all of us. I used to sell them to the local car audio shops for $100.00. They didn't have any stickers on them but I was dating a girl in the main office and she would hook me up with the Stinger and SVR stickers. Miss the old days. Now they cost me $100 and up.
#50
i bought a red top when i worked parts and i paid $99 for it and it was worth every penny... now almost 2 years later im trying to come up with a plan to use the 2 years free replacement warenty.. i think im going to take it down to the ee lab and we will drain it and charge it multiple times till it dies and then i can run some real tests on them too
Matt
p.s. i have a cap and i kinda had to have one (i have dual batteries and 2 1000 watt ams and a 400 watt amp, it was not a band aid in my aplication... but a requirement. when i put a scope on my system you should have seen the shrink in my current flow without one, now its almost smooth)
Matt
Matt
p.s. i have a cap and i kinda had to have one (i have dual batteries and 2 1000 watt ams and a 400 watt amp, it was not a band aid in my aplication... but a requirement. when i put a scope on my system you should have seen the shrink in my current flow without one, now its almost smooth)
Matt
#53
#54
Here's a cool homework exercise to further reinforce those EE classes :-) If you still have that scope handy, check out how much high frequency switching noise is conducted out of the amp's power supply terminals. There's a pretty good chance there's a decent amount of fundamental switching frequency noise of the power supply and all of its harmonics coming back out into the supply lines especially under load... Some $0.05 "high frequency" ceramic or poly caps will kill most of these... The multifarad caps won't even see the noise... I wouldn't worry too much about this since automotive power supplies are noisy by definition.
Last edited by aquaman; 12-07-2005 at 11:53 AM.
#55
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hondamx320
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
1
03-03-2005 04:54 AM
hondamx320
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
2
01-20-2005 08:22 PM